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| Arrival at Mangalore Central Station at 0900 hrs. |
Had watched a Kambala(Buffalo) race way back in late 1990's at Yedthady, a neighbouring village in Barkur, my dad's ancestral home.Vividly remember Late Uncle William.Furtado taking my maternal cousin Late Mr Rocky.Ferts and myself to Yedthady and it was my teething years in the world of Internet.Did write about the Kambala on a site,probably " Orkut" that no more exists in 2023..Bizzarely thanks to " FB( Facebook)" I got into touch with a Kambala aficionado and through him got the dates of the common local village Kambala's like the one I witnessed in Yedthady before the" INTERNET INVENTION" revolutionized communication, entertainment and publishing.Was surprised to know that Barkur village was also hosting a Kambala.Decades elapsed since the " Yedthady Kambala" and recently back home in Mumbai taking stock of my own " Portfolio " business realized that my father's share of the farmland property would go to total waste if I didn't claim it or donate the same on my Dad's behalf. Co- incidentally those fields purchased by my dad is called " Kambla Gadhe( Kambla Fields)" in Konkani language as it is massive in area. Fit for a Buffalo Race track as well as very fertile land , producing maximum yield of grain and rice.After Dad's demise in 2007 I had instructed Uncle William regarding my inheritance of the property even giving him power of attorney to sell the same property on my behalf. The same remained unfulfilled with Uncle William expiring at the age of 90 in 2018 and myself busy in my own " Portfolio Management" and travel/ blogging passion, the modern day " Digital Nomad".Mr Peter.D'souza ,cousin Charles.Martin.Furtado's contemporary and friend whose parents were once tenant's of grandfather's farmland was now a care-taker of Barkur ancestral house inherited by Uncle William's children. Charles.Martin.Furtado , Uncle William's eldest son managed the upkeep of the property and his friend Peter was the only source who knew the entire " FURTADO FARMLAND" in Hosala village and Mudahadu village'on Kudru of Barkur. The rice field farms are scattered in various parts of the village and now split among my uncles which included my Dad .Life and human mortality is very unpredictable irrespective of age and realized I should at least know the location of the " Furtado Farmland" including my " Kambla Gadhe( Kambla Fields)" and Mudahadu inheritance on Kudru through Dad before I myself become a distant memory.I philosophise on this quote by the Dalai.Lama about "Man/Woman and lifestyle".The Dalai Lama, when asked what surprised him most about humanity, answered "Man! Because he sacrifices his health in order to make money. Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health. And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived.” A quote to keep you thinking.The 2023-24 Kambala season was unique as for the first time in its history the Kambala races were held in the State's Capital Bangalore titled " Namma Kambala" and held over a period of 2 days on 25 and 26 November on artificial slush tracks with actors and political V.I.P's in attendance and a crowd numbering in lakhs .The Kambala was made popular across India in the Kannada film " Kantara" dubbed in various languages including Hindi that became a International box office hit.Decided to visit Barkur during the Kambala( Buffalo Race) season and hence on Thursday(30/11/2023) travelled by the Matsyagandha Express from Mumbai reaching Mangalore Central Station at 0900 hrs. During the train journey a Muslim family was in my section and one of the ladies among them was a hobbyist jeweller and seeing my large stone ring told me it was a genuine " Aqeeq" stone and was relieved that it was not plastic as I had presumed.
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| " Cosmo Lodge " my one night stay in Mangalore. |
Although very cheap it was a genuine stone and a style icon.Another male Hindu Businessman passenger travelling with a group of friends akin to me was a Nomadic traveller to religious sites within India and as usual the train travel was not boring.Our train was 21/2 hrs late and on arriving at Mangalore station made inquiries and finally with great difficulty reaching " Cosmo Lodge" at Pandeshwar next to landmark R.T.O office. Was accommodated in " Room No 309" on 2nd floor, excellent clean cosy room with T.V.After a bath got dressed and headed onto the street and at the " R.T.O" junction boarded a rickshaw to " St Agnes Convent and Institution" to meet my 79 year old last surviving Paternal Aunt Daisy.Furtado who had joined the Carmelite section of Nuns having completed her " Golden Jubilee" as a Nun in 2019 and same celebrated in Mumbai.She was now in retirement at St Agnes Convent.During the rickshaw ride through Hampancutta which is main Central Mangalore felt I was in a locale in Mumbai as a few skyscraper buildings dotted the Mangalore skyline, once a city of Bungalows and small buildings. " Mangalore City bus stand" and " Town Hall" building as well as " Taj Mahal" Hotel and lodge are a few of the iconic landmarks of Mangalore of the 1980's.Change is permanent. I had begun my 23 year sea profession as a " Marine Engineer" from the Port of Mangalore joining the ship " M.V.Karnataka" in 1983.The Mangalore of 2023 had evolved by leaps and bounds from the Mangalore of 1983 when as a 23 year old I had explored and travelled across vast parts of this city.
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| Sr Noelle Marie ( Aunt Daisy.Furtado) in retirement at " St Agnes Convent and Institution " at Bendoor in Mangalore.Aunt told me that this tree is the landmark tree of this entire sprawling educational complex and Convent due to its age and a popular gathering locale in the evenings.Christian clergy is known Worldwide for the educational institutions set up and managed by the Church. |
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| Mangalorean Fish lunch at " Karunya's Canteen ". |
The rickshaw fare amounted to Rs 75 and on entering " ST Agnes Convent and Institution" girls campus was amazed at the vastness of the campus and education institutions within this sprawling campus.Met diminutive aunt Daisy.Furtado( Sr Noelle Marie) and was surprised to know that she herself was educated at this college before joining the" Nunnery".She held the post of " Principal" in a few schools before finally retiring from active teaching profession.I am sure the women alumni of this institution have shone brightly in various professions .From " ST Agnes Convent and Institution" made my way to the bus stop and travelled like a local back to " R.T.O" junction with the bus ticket being only Rs 10.Lunch was Mangalorean fish curry/ Rice served on a banana leaf at " Karunya's Canteen", a small restaurant on Pandeshwar road in close proximity to " Cosmo Lodge".After ages had authentic pure desi Mangalorean " Bunt" food served on a banana leaf.In Mumbai " Mahesh Lunch Home" is a household name for Mangalorean food and price list incomparable to the Desi Mangalorean hotels in Mangalore.In the evening took a stroll in the vicinity and seems Mangalore food takeaway shops are a part of one of India's cleanest city's topography.Had a " Jackfruit pastry" snack at landmark " Cochin Bakery ".
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| " Pomfret Tawa fry" at " Hotel Narayana " in Mangalore. |
Later drank a " Kingfisher beer" at " Winegate " restaurant not to be mistaken as " Watergate" .After beer wanted to visit " Machali Restaurant" for its famous fish menu but since it was far from my lodge asked the restaurant bearer for a alternate hotel and he guided me to "Hotel Narayana" situated in Bunder locality of Mangalore.It was a long walk past the iconic " Police Commissioner's Building " to " Hotel Narayana" and on entering the hotel was surprised that one of Mangalore's landmark hotel seemed a tiny dingy restaurant devoid of any lavish decor or grandeur. " ITS ALL ABOUT ITS FISH MENU STUPID AND NOT THE ADVERTISEMENTS" ! Yes, don't judge a book by its cover or a restaurant by its external grandeur. Dinner was Pomfret tawa fry with rice thali.The masala of the " Pomfret Fry" seems a patented recipe as it was totally something different to normal fried fish.A excellent dinner with the Bill amounting to Rs 530.Walked the way back to home away from home " Cosmo Lodge".A nice cozy self contained room and thankfully in winter the weather is pleasant in Mangalore.
Saturday (2/12/2024):- After normal routines checked out of my.lodge at 0545 hrs and walking past the mosque and landmark " Office of Police Commissioner " building entered the sprawling open air complex of the local bus terminus.Was at the right place at the right time and boarded the empty " MOODABIDRI- KARKALA" bus that left the terminus at 0610 hrs.Ticket was Rs 50 and at 0715 hrs reached Moodibidri City bus stand.
On alighting the bus walked to the nearest lodge and to my horror was told that the Moodabidri Kambala scheduled for today was cancelled and to be held on 17th December.Plans always never materialize as planned and decided to catch the bus towards Brahmavara and finally head to ancestral home Barkur.Rang up Mr Peter.D'souza about change in travel plans and breakfast was the signature " Masala Dosa/ tea" at Hotel Jayashree. Boarded the bus at 0845 hrs and got a beautiful countryside drive of the villages of Mangalore district on this different route with the bus ticket being Rs 70 to Brahmavar.Read about the historical religious temples of Moodabidri and Karkala and as a gambler/ investor having the eternal " Rakesh Jhunjhunwala optimist" mentality thanked my unexpected bad luck .Thanks to the cancelled ," Moodabidri Kambala" travelled through these villages for the first time finally reaching the new City Stand bus stop of Udipi at 1015 hrs.After a brief halt at Udupi bus stand began the onward journey to Brahmavar passing through the familiar highway and on reaching Santhekatte was amazed on seeing a mini- Mumbai with flat style buildings dominating the skyline near the cross- road to Kallianpur.In the 1970's/ 1980's quaint countryside houses dominated this village including my maternal Aunt Late Urban.Fert's country house.Today they have all become multi-storey buildings on par with plush buildings of Bangalore and Mumbai.Change is permanent.
On reaching Brahmavar alighted the bus in familiar surroundings and crossed over the highway to Brahmavar City bus stand.Rang up Mr Peter.D'souza about my arrival and at 1045 hrs the bus began its short journey from Brahmavar to Barkur with the ticket being Rs 10.
On arrival at Kalchapra in Barkur informed Peter and he told me to proceed to the house.Hired a autorickshaw and at a cost of Rs 50 was finally at ancestral house .As a traditional Swahili proverb goes, “Kuishi kwingi ni kuona mengi – "To live long is to see much.” If my father was alive he would have completed 100 years in 2024 and this large bungalow house whose main foundation is over a 100 years old was well maintained but the surrounding compound and coconut garden estate resembled the abandoned ruins of Ross Island in Andamans.I had last visited Barkur in 2019 on my motorcycle riding from Mumbai and at that time the entire compound and surrounding coconut plantation was well maintained. I immediately informed cousin Martin .Furtado in Mumbai about the degradation of the compound of this once upon a time lively and fully inhabited farmhouse complete with Buffalo stable, milch cows and chickens.In 2023 this farmhouse could stake a claim as a historical ruin of the " Furtado Family" , once a resident Catholic family of Barkur.
Later Mr Peter D'souza arrived at Barkur house and after explaining him the degradation of the farmhouse estate we both headed for lunch in Peter's car to "The Golden Spoon multicuisine Family restaurant" in Barkur.
Lunch was excellent "Lep fish/Ukda Thandu(Boiled Rice)" downed with a glass of appetizing beer. My main purpose of visiting Barkur was to sort out my inheritance otherwise i would be holding just "Paper Property rights" .I had never lived alone in such a isolated large farmhouse of this size akin to living on a Island and hence decided to stay at this 100 years + ancestral house rather than a hotel, deriving inspiration from the Jarawa Tribals of Middle Andamans whom i happened to glimpse while passing through the tribal reserve forest of Middle Andaman .
Later in the evening Mr Peter.D'souza drove me to his nephews house Mr Neil.Pereira, a lawyer to get my inherited property documents scrutinized. Got the shock of my life to know that a well known gangster Purshotam Shetty from Manipal usurped a 1/4 of my Dad's land on Kudru in Mudahadu village of Barkur in 2008 by making a fool of me through a lawyer.Approximately Rs 5-10 lakhs copnsidering a minimum base price was usurped by " PRAJWAL DEVELOPERS,MANIPAL,MAHE" ,the company fronted by Mr Purshottam.Shetty.This happened in 2008 when I went with Uncle William to a lawyer recommended by him for getting a " Power of Attorney" giving Uncle William the right to sell the property on my behalf .Unbelievable and I came to know this today through Peter and his nephew lawyer Mr Neil.Pereira.Intended giving my inherited land for charity in Dad's name and better late than too late to realize my cardinal error in being conned, a first instance in my life.Have lost and recovered double this amount in the stock market and have been cheated at Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai but never ever swindled like this in my life.
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| Entrance gate to Barkur Temple Town in Udupi district of Karnataka.. |
On alighting the bus walked to the nearest lodge and to my horror was told that the Moodabidri Kambala scheduled for today was cancelled and to be held on 17th December.Plans always never materialize as planned and decided to catch the bus towards Brahmavara and finally head to ancestral home Barkur.Rang up Mr Peter.D'souza about change in travel plans and breakfast was the signature " Masala Dosa/ tea" at Hotel Jayashree. Boarded the bus at 0845 hrs and got a beautiful countryside drive of the villages of Mangalore district on this different route with the bus ticket being Rs 70 to Brahmavar.Read about the historical religious temples of Moodabidri and Karkala and as a gambler/ investor having the eternal " Rakesh Jhunjhunwala optimist" mentality thanked my unexpected bad luck .Thanks to the cancelled ," Moodabidri Kambala" travelled through these villages for the first time finally reaching the new City Stand bus stop of Udipi at 1015 hrs.After a brief halt at Udupi bus stand began the onward journey to Brahmavar passing through the familiar highway and on reaching Santhekatte was amazed on seeing a mini- Mumbai with flat style buildings dominating the skyline near the cross- road to Kallianpur.In the 1970's/ 1980's quaint countryside houses dominated this village including my maternal Aunt Late Urban.Fert's country house.Today they have all become multi-storey buildings on par with plush buildings of Bangalore and Mumbai.Change is permanent.
On reaching Brahmavar alighted the bus in familiar surroundings and crossed over the highway to Brahmavar City bus stand.Rang up Mr Peter.D'souza about my arrival and at 1045 hrs the bus began its short journey from Brahmavar to Barkur with the ticket being Rs 10.
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| Mr Peter.D'souza and self at the " Golden Spoon multicuisine Family restaurant " in Barkur. A simple lunch of excellent " Leppo fish / Thali". Mr Peter.Furtado is my consultant regarding assessing my inheritance property of which I have already been swindled of a portion . |
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| " Furtado Farmhouse " over 100 years old inherited by Late Uncle William.Furtado and after his death by his children. |
On arrival at Kalchapra in Barkur informed Peter and he told me to proceed to the house.Hired a autorickshaw and at a cost of Rs 50 was finally at ancestral house .As a traditional Swahili proverb goes, “Kuishi kwingi ni kuona mengi – "To live long is to see much.” If my father was alive he would have completed 100 years in 2024 and this large bungalow house whose main foundation is over a 100 years old was well maintained but the surrounding compound and coconut garden estate resembled the abandoned ruins of Ross Island in Andamans.I had last visited Barkur in 2019 on my motorcycle riding from Mumbai and at that time the entire compound and surrounding coconut plantation was well maintained. I immediately informed cousin Martin .Furtado in Mumbai about the degradation of the compound of this once upon a time lively and fully inhabited farmhouse complete with Buffalo stable, milch cows and chickens.In 2023 this farmhouse could stake a claim as a historical ruin of the " Furtado Family" , once a resident Catholic family of Barkur.
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| St Theresa Church, Kemmanu.The church is in close proximity to the main entrance road leading to the " Thonse Padumane Kambala ". |
Later Mr Peter D'souza arrived at Barkur house and after explaining him the degradation of the farmhouse estate we both headed for lunch in Peter's car to "The Golden Spoon multicuisine Family restaurant" in Barkur.
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| Main entrance from main road to " Thonse Padumane Kambala Gadhe. |
Lunch was excellent "Lep fish/Ukda Thandu(Boiled Rice)" downed with a glass of appetizing beer. My main purpose of visiting Barkur was to sort out my inheritance otherwise i would be holding just "Paper Property rights" .I had never lived alone in such a isolated large farmhouse of this size akin to living on a Island and hence decided to stay at this 100 years + ancestral house rather than a hotel, deriving inspiration from the Jarawa Tribals of Middle Andamans whom i happened to glimpse while passing through the tribal reserve forest of Middle Andaman .
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| All decked up and ready to participate in the " Thonse Padumane Kambala ". |
Dinner was a Chinese takeaway with a glass of beer to drown my sorrows of being conned but also happy that I came to know about this unbelievable con act in my lifetime unlike my Dad who presumed his property investments was akin to owning a Princely village.Travel within India educates .Akin to my contemporary Late Rakesh.Jhunjhunwala I am always optimistic in life and I am sure whoever has swindled my Dad's hard earned money will be rewarded by " KARMA".End of the story of Dad's property investment and his inheritors being conned off a portion of the property. Life moves on.
Sunday(3/12/2023) Barkur :- A sleepless night due to change of accommodation and also the fact that this palatial farmhouse is uninhabitable for a normal person.
Two small fruit bats were my companions throughout the night flying around the house when I switched on the light to go to the toilet.Termite like ants are a plague in this over 100 + years old farmhouse and I wonder how the " Jarawa tribal" of Andamans from which I got inspiration to live all alone in this vacant " Furtado Farmhouse" live in dense tropical jungles.Travel educates.Heard the beautiful cooing of peacocks in the night as also crowing of the occasional Cockrel.As for any hauntings or being scared of ghosts in this 100+ years farmhouse having its own history which until 2019 had human inhabitants and honestly admit of having a nervousness about the supernatural right from childhood as .a kid when visiting this packed inhabited house in 1970's .Seems Manipal Land Mafia Gangster Purshottam.Shetty has totally exorcised me of the fear of " GHOSTS" although his fee's of Rs 13-14 Lacs for the cure was astronomical. Rakesh Jhunjhunwala style humour of always being positive.I am now at age 63 years more fearful of encountering another living Human Ghost a la " Land Mafia Gangster Purshottam Shetty" than a la Michael Jackson style comical thriller screen ghost .Not a fan of India's popular T.V reality show " BIG BOSS" where contestants are locked in a house for 100 days and eliminated by viewers from " BIG BOSS HOUSE" through voting .Wonder if a contestant would live alone in " Furtado Farmhouse" and be eliminated by fear and not viewers . Such was the experience of my first night stay in " Furtado Farmhouse ". Truth is stranger than fiction Ahoy !
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| With the " Kambala Dancers" who with drum beaters are a active part of the Kambala celebrations. |
Two small fruit bats were my companions throughout the night flying around the house when I switched on the light to go to the toilet.Termite like ants are a plague in this over 100 + years old farmhouse and I wonder how the " Jarawa tribal" of Andamans from which I got inspiration to live all alone in this vacant " Furtado Farmhouse" live in dense tropical jungles.Travel educates.Heard the beautiful cooing of peacocks in the night as also crowing of the occasional Cockrel.As for any hauntings or being scared of ghosts in this 100+ years farmhouse having its own history which until 2019 had human inhabitants and honestly admit of having a nervousness about the supernatural right from childhood as .a kid when visiting this packed inhabited house in 1970's .Seems Manipal Land Mafia Gangster Purshottam.Shetty has totally exorcised me of the fear of " GHOSTS" although his fee's of Rs 13-14 Lacs for the cure was astronomical. Rakesh Jhunjhunwala style humour of always being positive.I am now at age 63 years more fearful of encountering another living Human Ghost a la " Land Mafia Gangster Purshottam Shetty" than a la Michael Jackson style comical thriller screen ghost .Not a fan of India's popular T.V reality show " BIG BOSS" where contestants are locked in a house for 100 days and eliminated by viewers from " BIG BOSS HOUSE" through voting .Wonder if a contestant would live alone in " Furtado Farmhouse" and be eliminated by fear and not viewers . Such was the experience of my first night stay in " Furtado Farmhouse ". Truth is stranger than fiction Ahoy !
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| " Thonse Padumane Kambala " field. Slush waterlogged Paddy field used as a Buffalo Race Track. |
Amazing living in a house where you have small fruit bats flying above you and the occasional cooing sound of peacocks just outside the farmhouse.This massive farmhouse resembled a Jungle hideout to observe wildlife . Thank you "Purshottam Shetty" for exorcising me off the fear of Ghosts otherwise i would have panicked staying all alone in this huge farmhouse that has seen numerous of its inhabitants ,my ancestors, come and go in a span of 100 + years. After my normal toilet routines got dressed to attend the 0700 hrs mass at St Peters church. On the way entering the main bifurcation road asked a young lady on a scooter for directions and Ms Hazel.Mendonca based in Dubai and holidaying in Hosala village of Barkur gave me a pillion lift on her scooter. The first time in my life a lady gave me a pillion lift on a scooter and that too in tiny Barkur village. Times they are a changin ! Women have given me lifts in a car in foreign country's but never on a scooter. Thanked young Ms Hazel.Mendonca and entered St Peter's Church compound lined with plush car's, a indication of the per capita income of Catholics in tiny Barkur village. As usual a long lengthy mass in Mangalorean Konkani language .After mass walked down towards Kalchapra bus stand entering the famous " Preethi Sagar" popular vegetarian restaurant for my breakfast .The travel distance from Barkur to Thonse is approximately 18 Km requiring changes of buses along the route.After breakfast boarded the bus to Santhekatte and from Santhekatte the connecting bus to Kemmanu .Alighted the bus at St Teresa Church in Kemmanu with my destination being the "Kamble Gadhe(Buffalo race paddy fields)" to attend the "Thonse Padumane Kambala".
Asking directions a elderly local guided me towards the location and at 0945 i was very early as the Kambala races were scheduled for the evening beginning at 1500 hrs.
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| According to me the best Buffalo pair participating in the Thonse Kambala. |
Boarded the return bus back to Santhekatte . Cousin Sylvia Lewis and her husband Joshy.Lewis were residing in the same vicinity .Rang up Joshy Lewis and visited their residence. We were meeting after ages and as usual after normal family talks bid goodbye .Mr Joshy. Lewis guided me to the right bus stop as some road construction work was in progress and in order to cross the road while arriving at their residence had to literally do a minor mountaineering ascent and descent. On arriving at Kemmanu had a lavish 'Cokkr fish curry/Ukda Thandu" lunch washed down with Kingfisher beer at "Shika Bar" which was packed to capacity .During lunch watched the State election results on the restaurant T.V. What, me worry about "State Assembly Election Results" or "Kambala Buffalo" results ? Ahoy ! After a lavish excellent lunch walked the distance from the main road to the "Kamble Gadhe".A typical village style carnival atmosphere having various stalls selling eatables and drinks. There are Three types of Kambalas 1) Haggada Ota :- Rope Race 2) Kene Halage(Negilu) :- Wooden Ply Race 3) Halage Ota :- Leveler Plank Race The main aspect of this game is the selection of buffaloes. It is believed that according to logic of astrology the buffaloes must be of only either black or red in color. One pair of black and another pair of red is known as Kalle and Bolle respectively in local Kannada language. Every game has a finishing point which is called Manjotti.The Kambala festival season of 2023 started in November and would end in April 2024, a long season akin to "Horse racing" season of any racing centre in India.Most importantly would the "BENGALURU KAMBALA" introduced this year and a mega success be a annual event in the future and the showpiece of "KAMBALA" akin to the "INDIAN DERBY HORSE RACING" in Mumbai ? Luckily as i was early got to view the grand opening ceremony of the Kambala races by the main patron , a member of the landlord "Padumane Family" whose ancestors have been organizing this "Thonse Kambala" for over 100 years. Was sad that Barkur "Furtado house" formerly "Lobo House" as it was inherited by my grandfather from my grandmother's side being over 100 years in existence was now sadly abandoned since 2019 due to lack of a family member willing to permanently reside in this palatial farmhouse. As i had witnessed these races way back in the 1990's at Yedthady village the procedure and conduction of the races was no novelty to me although now as a blogger/illustrator paid more attention from a journalistic point of view.
Absolutely similar to "Horse Racing" for the fact that its a very elite and expensive sport as every pair of buffaloes had a few handler's besides a "Buffalo Jockey Runner" and the local landlords/Farmers actively participating in these races would have to have a income way above the average village farmer.
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| A photograph with the organizing patron's pair of buffaloes which would be the last runners to conclude the " Thonse Padumane Kambala " festival of 2023. |
The buffaloes akin to prized thoroughbred racehorses were well maintained, docile and seemed easy to handle.
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| The " KAMBALA TEAM". Very similar to " HORSE RACING " with many humans involved in managing a pair of Buffaloes compete with other buffaloes on the " Kambala Race Track".A very elite and ultra expensive village sport. |
Took a photograph with the organizing patron's pair of buffaloes which would be the last runners to conclude the Thonse Kambala festival of 2023.The races would be conducted until dark under floodlights but i made my exit early at 1700 hrs as getting back to home away from home "Furtado Farmhouse" from Kemmanu was quite a distance. Was finally home at Barkur after changing buses at Santhekatte and Brahmavar.Relaxed in the palatial farmhouse with music on my laptop as also akin to the " Andaman Jarawa Tribals" getting accustomed to living in the midst of insects of which the worst were the mosquitoes. Life in concrete jungle city's and forested countryside's of India is a day and night difference. Ahoy ! Monday( 4/12/2023) Barkur :- My sleep had shortened from normal 4 hrs to 3 hrs but thanks to the "Purshottam Shetty Land scam " effect i never ever felt spooky living in such a old isolated farmhouse all alone, a record in my stays across hotels and hostels in India and foreign country's. Have lived in a few luxurious palatial resorts during my travel across country's in Africa but never ever alone. During the night as usual a bat flew over my bed chasing a insect and brought back memories of singer Meat Loaf's best selling album "Bat out of Hell".In the morning at 0700 hrs ventured into " Car Street" of Barkur Town and after a refreshing cup of tea in " Prabath Bhavan" the nearest hotel walked towards landmark Kalchapra and nearing "Prethi Sagar" hotel was surprised to see a elderly man feeding a few stray dog's, unbelievable in Barkur of the 20th century. While having my breakfast in "Prethi Sagar" the same gentleman entered the hotel and struck a conversation with local Barkurian Mr Venkatraman.
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| Halage Ota ( Leveler Plank Race) Kambala :- The "Jockey" stands on this plank pulled by the pair of buffaloes.Requires excellent body balance considering the speed of the buffaloes. |
Bhandarkar who was 2 years younger to me and whose son and daughter- in - law were specialized medical doctors.Meeting him I realized I should avoid thinking I am still a teenager just because I have the licence of a " Bachelor". In fact "Prethi Sagar" restaurant was his place as he owned the entire building a section of which he had rented to the hotel.On my way back to home away from home took a different route which once upon a time in the 1970's/1980's was rice paddy fields and today is nothing but bungalow style houses replacing the once upon a time rice fields .
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| Mr Peter.D'souza my consultant for tracking the fields inherited by me.Here we are Standing in the " ACHARYA BETTU( KAMBLE GADHE) " which is the equivalent of 2 football fields.Was once the most fertile land among all cultivated fields of grandfather.Now this would probably go into house construction after various legal formalities that could take ages. ACHARYA BETTU LAND DIMENSIONS :- A) Survey No 41-2b total area = 47 cents out of which 4 1/2 Cents to be donated to " Barkur Gram Panchayat" for road construction.B) Survey 41 -1 Total area = 91 Cents out of which 1 1/2 Cents to be handed over to "Barkur Gram Panchayat" for road construction. Hence final total "Acharya Bettu Gadde" = 42.5 + 89.5 = 132 Cents or 1.32 acres. . |
Change is permanent.There were still a few empty fields, now a marshland and spotted Storks, Ibis's and peacock's, a bird watchers paradise.Later at 1045 hrs Mr Peter.D'souza arrived at the house and we drove to " ACHARYA BETT( KAMBLE GADHE) " fields, the fields my father purchased with his own hard earned money from which he received no dividends and hence the cause of house civil unrest.The plot of land was bigger than a football field and in fact there was a volleyball net at one end of the field.
Thankfully unforgettable " Land Grabber Purshottam Shetty" didn't usurp this land as it's prime property.
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| Landmark house at Kachur village in Barkur that runs a scenic "TODDY BAR" facing the Sitanadi Riverside Tonic what the Doctor recommended in disciplined amount. TODDY is a great natural health drink.. |
I estimated the property to be worth 25 lakhs and at least I now know the actual property land holdings my father acquired, a pittance in today's World of galloping inflation with which Rs 25 lakhs might get you a slum hut in Mumbai in 2023 or not even that.At least I can now die in peace knowing the actual valuation of Dad's so called property investments .I remember Rakesh Jhunjhunwala writing the fact that he sold precious shares on insistence of his Mother to buy a house in Malabar Hill which during his lifetime did increase in value but not in proportion to the value of shares he sold which triplicated in price compared to his plush Malabar hill property.I hope Dad was alive to see my portfolio and compare it with his investments during his lifetime.Matter settled and after viewing the property we both headed to buy toddy.Arrived home and drank the excellent health drink " Toddy" which if drunk in a disciplined manner is as good as Yoga for health.Lunch was at plush " Royal Dine Restaurant". After ages had the largest tawa fried " Lady Fish(Kanee in Konkani language) " along with Ukda chaval ( Boiled Rice) and Bangda curry.This restaurant was on par with ," Hotel Narayana" of Mangalore city in its recipe although different in decor being plush and prices definitely cheaper than Mangalorean fish dish mascot of Mumbai " Mahesh Lunch Home" . On arriving at Barkur decided to take a swim in the river and on passing the house of Late Harry.Lobo happened to meet Mrs Lobo and was sad to see that time and age had also made them non agriculturists with the stable abandoned. Change is permanent. Worst surprise was on arriving at the banks of the Sitanadi River found its land boundary overgrown with Elephant grass and no sight of a sand bank nor a gap in the elephant grass to enter the water.Didnt want to behave like a teenager and take a risky entry into the river.Walked back home and on the way requested a young man on a scooter to give me a lift and during a short conversation realized we were distantly related as Alfred.Furtado was the son of Late Mr Richard.Furtado who was my Dad's cousin.
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| The Medical college that pioneered Manipal's growth of upteen educational institutions on the International World map of education.Today the name " MANIPAL" is synonymous with quality education having produced illustrious alumni from its Institutions. |
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| Cousin Mrs Maysie.Archer, Uncle Godwin.Gonsalves and Mrs Kusum.Gonsalves at their residence in Udupi. |
In Barkur most of the Furtado's are related through my grandparents and Dad.As for me wouldn't be surprized if someone built a private swimming pool bungalow next to the Sitanadi River as such was the topographical changes in Barkur Savastana.
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| In Manipal at the residence of Mr Alex Sequeira .Family friends dating back to Mombasa of the 1960's.Thanks to Mrs Reena.Sequeira for this photo. |
My slipper foot strap had broken and hence in the evening walked to " Car Street" the main one buffalo street of Old Town Barkur.
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| Lunch at Hotel Thimmappa in Udipi.Excellent moderately priced Sea food. |
While walking along car street spotted Mr Arthur.Furtado sitting in the verandah of his plush ancestral bungalow.Entered his compound and had a talk with Arthur whose dad Late Mr Joseph.Furtado was my Dad's cousin.Arthur had retired from the hectic lifestyle of Mumbai to settle down in one Buffalo town of Barkur.After purchasing a new pair of sandals costing Rs 190 made my way back to home away from home.
Dinner was authentic " Udupi Masala Dosa" costing only Rs 30 at " Prabhath Bhavan" , a small old restaurant situated on car street in Barkur.Back home was onto the music on my laptop and as usual relaxing on my laptop.The " Digital Nomad" had finally been able to recreate the 21st century Nomadic lifestyle , a " Jarawa " style isolated living with 21st century technology.
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| " Car Street" . Main Town centre(Downtown Barkur) of Barkur early in the morning. |
Tuesday(5/12/2023) :- Seems my presence in abandoned " Furtado Farmhouse" has made a difference as the insects inside the house have reduced and the fruit bats didn't visit me at night, scared of my presence.Animals and birds are ultrasensitive to human presence and whenever the peacocks purred outside the house and I shone my torchlight from the window they would immediately turn silent." Furtado Farmhouse" was akin to living in the Buffer zone of a national park with only difference being that there were no large carnivore animals although a leopard was known to have eaten a dog just two weeks ago in the upper forested hills of Hosala village of Barkur.
Spotted a peahen with its young chick crossing the farmhouse compound akin to a hen and its chick.Later in the morning left the farmhouse and headed towards Kalchapra Bus stop.
On the way hiked a lift from Mr Sylvan.Almeida and as i always mention that as a "Solo Traveller" you are never ever alone.Breakfast was at "Prethi Sagar" hotel where i had a short talk with Mr Sylvan.Almeida who told me he first mistook me to be someone else from the village whom i eerily resembled.Truth is stranger than fiction.After breakfast headed to the bus stand and the local buses resembled Mumbai's trains at peak hours, packed to capacity.Managed to board a bus heading to Brahmavar and from Brahmavar to Udupi local bus station.From the bus stand boarded a autorickshaw to maternal Uncle Godwin.Gonsalves's house at Gundubail Road in Udupi.On reaching the location rang him up and he arrived on his scooter and i rode pillion to his bungalow residence.Aunt Kusum had recently survived a heart attack and looked frail while age seemed kind to Uncle Godwin, my mother's youngest brother.His daughter ,cousin Mrs Maysie. Archer( nee Gonsalves) was at home and after the normal family talks Maisey wanted some guidance on investing on Stocks to which i replied that a aptitude to gambling risk is the basic qualification even if possessing a string of high profile formal educational degrees.Seems peacocks are numerous in Udupi district with peacocks literally sitting on the compound boundary wall of Uncle Godwins bungalow.While leaving Maysie gave me directions to "Hotel Thimmappa" considered one of the 2 best fish menu hotels in Udupi.On the way to Thimmappa hotel rang up Mr Alex Sequeira staying in Manipal asking him if i could visit his house as i was in the vicinity to which the answer was affirmative. It was a long walk to Hotel Thimmappa and on the way quenched my thirst with a bottle of beer in a bar.After drinking my beer at 1245 hrs was inside the ordinary looking "Hotel Thimmappa" which was crowded with a queue in waiting for entry into this fish restaurant. Lunch was "Disco Tawa fried fish/Ukda Tandoo/Prawns Masala", excellent and no wonder this restaurant is a hot favourite in Udupi as it is also moderately priced.
After the sumptuous lunch boarded a bus to Manipal and alighted at Kasturba Medical college in Manipal.Boarded a taxi to "End Point Road" of plush Manipal town dotted with educational institutions and tall buildings.
Entered plush "Mandavi Emerald" building that had a beautiful private swimming pool.Took the lift and on ringing the bell was greeted by Mrs Reena. Sequeira, wife of Alex.Sequeira who had just been out of the house for some personal work. I had visited Alex's house as a condolence visit on the demise of his mother Mrs Wally.Sequeira at the age of 95 years having known the family since the 1960's in Mombasa in Kenya.The Sequeira family was very close to my mum and Dad in Mombasa during the early 1960's when i was a kid and later when we all migrated to India they did keep in touch with my parents..
In fact my first and only engagement proposal in 1989 was arranged by Mrs Deslie.Sequeira the wife of Chief Engineer Mr Ronald.Sequeira, elder brother of Alex now settled in Canada.
My engagement story with Aloise.D'souza lasted less than 4 months and the rest was disaster history to my shipping career and personal life that took years to heal .Thanks to the "Rakesh Jhunjhunwala" optimism that i recovered from total disaster of career and monetary misery by changing my career after 23 years from "Marine Engineer" to self independent business venture of "Personal Portfolio Management" in which with a little luck and my own gambling aptitude and education became a success.So far so good..Discussed certain issues with Mr Alex Sequeira and received some guidance.On the way back home to Barkur Alex gave me a lift in his plush "Tata Helix" electric car.In fact the Sequeira's ancestral home was also in Barkur.
Bid Alex goodbye on arrival at Barkur and after a bathe headed to "Car Street" and on the way spotted a pair of peacocks in the fields. Dinner was Masala Dosa at "Prethi Sagar " hotel in Kalchapra.
Made it a point to return back to home away from home " Furtado Farmhouse " before darkness engulfed the vicinity and made myself comfortable on the laptop with music and blogging. Suddenly realized i was enjoying the Jarawa/Robinson Crusoe nomadic lifestyle.
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| Barkur is nicknamed the " Town of Temples" in Karnataka This is the Ramachandra Pathardi Temple on " Car Street" in Downtown Barkur Town. |
Spotted a peahen with its young chick crossing the farmhouse compound akin to a hen and its chick.Later in the morning left the farmhouse and headed towards Kalchapra Bus stop.
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| Can you spot the Peacock ? This particular field is teeming with aquatic birds and peacocks.Wonder how long this marshy field remains as a " Bird National park" before farmhouses are built on it.The entire vicinity once rice fields upto 20th century is now " FARMHOUSES" |
On the way hiked a lift from Mr Sylvan.Almeida and as i always mention that as a "Solo Traveller" you are never ever alone.Breakfast was at "Prethi Sagar" hotel where i had a short talk with Mr Sylvan.Almeida who told me he first mistook me to be someone else from the village whom i eerily resembled.Truth is stranger than fiction.After breakfast headed to the bus stand and the local buses resembled Mumbai's trains at peak hours, packed to capacity.Managed to board a bus heading to Brahmavar and from Brahmavar to Udupi local bus station.From the bus stand boarded a autorickshaw to maternal Uncle Godwin.Gonsalves's house at Gundubail Road in Udupi.On reaching the location rang him up and he arrived on his scooter and i rode pillion to his bungalow residence.Aunt Kusum had recently survived a heart attack and looked frail while age seemed kind to Uncle Godwin, my mother's youngest brother.His daughter ,cousin Mrs Maysie. Archer( nee Gonsalves) was at home and after the normal family talks Maisey wanted some guidance on investing on Stocks to which i replied that a aptitude to gambling risk is the basic qualification even if possessing a string of high profile formal educational degrees.Seems peacocks are numerous in Udupi district with peacocks literally sitting on the compound boundary wall of Uncle Godwins bungalow.While leaving Maysie gave me directions to "Hotel Thimmappa" considered one of the 2 best fish menu hotels in Udupi.On the way to Thimmappa hotel rang up Mr Alex Sequeira staying in Manipal asking him if i could visit his house as i was in the vicinity to which the answer was affirmative. It was a long walk to Hotel Thimmappa and on the way quenched my thirst with a bottle of beer in a bar.After drinking my beer at 1245 hrs was inside the ordinary looking "Hotel Thimmappa" which was crowded with a queue in waiting for entry into this fish restaurant. Lunch was "Disco Tawa fried fish/Ukda Tandoo/Prawns Masala", excellent and no wonder this restaurant is a hot favourite in Udupi as it is also moderately priced.
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| Batte Vinayaka temple of Kotekere in Barkur..There is a large lake next to this temple called Kotekere lake that never dries up |
After the sumptuous lunch boarded a bus to Manipal and alighted at Kasturba Medical college in Manipal.Boarded a taxi to "End Point Road" of plush Manipal town dotted with educational institutions and tall buildings.
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| Shri Pancha-Lingeshwara temple in Barkur. Oldest and most venerated temple in Barkur. |
Entered plush "Mandavi Emerald" building that had a beautiful private swimming pool.Took the lift and on ringing the bell was greeted by Mrs Reena. Sequeira, wife of Alex.Sequeira who had just been out of the house for some personal work. I had visited Alex's house as a condolence visit on the demise of his mother Mrs Wally.Sequeira at the age of 95 years having known the family since the 1960's in Mombasa in Kenya.The Sequeira family was very close to my mum and Dad in Mombasa during the early 1960's when i was a kid and later when we all migrated to India they did keep in touch with my parents..
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| How could I visit ancestral " Furtado Farmhouse " in Barkur and return to Mumbai without a dip in the SITANADI RIVER.Finally had a dip along doing my regular " AQUA YOGA" exercise in the river at Kachur village next to the landmark " TODDY SHOP". I was the lone human in the river and the BARKUR BRIDGE can be seen in the background. This part of the Sitanadi River is a favourite place of local fishermen for picking edible sea shells. |
In fact my first and only engagement proposal in 1989 was arranged by Mrs Deslie.Sequeira the wife of Chief Engineer Mr Ronald.Sequeira, elder brother of Alex now settled in Canada.
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| View of " Vandaru Kambala Field" in Vandaru village. There was no Buffalo races but cattle were paraded on this waterlogged field and religious rituals performed. |
My engagement story with Aloise.D'souza lasted less than 4 months and the rest was disaster history to my shipping career and personal life that took years to heal .Thanks to the "Rakesh Jhunjhunwala" optimism that i recovered from total disaster of career and monetary misery by changing my career after 23 years from "Marine Engineer" to self independent business venture of "Personal Portfolio Management" in which with a little luck and my own gambling aptitude and education became a success.So far so good..Discussed certain issues with Mr Alex Sequeira and received some guidance.On the way back home to Barkur Alex gave me a lift in his plush "Tata Helix" electric car.In fact the Sequeira's ancestral home was also in Barkur.
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| Entrance to the " Vandaru Harake Kambala " near Shankarnarayana in Kundapur Taluk of Udipi District.There were hundreds of devotees visiting the temple but no " Kambala " races were held .Pairs of buffaloes and cattle were taken onto the field for fulfillment of " Harake( Vows).Also devotees put paddy and money into baskets kept on the periphery of the Kambala field.At this Kambala although there was no running of buffaloes got to understand the religious significance of Kambala. |
Bid Alex goodbye on arrival at Barkur and after a bathe headed to "Car Street" and on the way spotted a pair of peacocks in the fields. Dinner was Masala Dosa at "Prethi Sagar " hotel in Kalchapra.
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| Religious Vandaru Kambala with a Village carnival celebration. |
Made it a point to return back to home away from home " Furtado Farmhouse " before darkness engulfed the vicinity and made myself comfortable on the laptop with music and blogging. Suddenly realized i was enjoying the Jarawa/Robinson Crusoe nomadic lifestyle.
Wednesday(6/12/2023)Barkur :- My sleep seems to have reduced to 2 hrs, unbelievable but true.Strangely after my entry into the house the insects reduced and fruit bats disappeared from the house.Daily heard sounds outside the farmhouse of birds or could be even some small animals which could be scary if consuming a lot of horror/ ghost films for entertainment.The Farmhouse was like a " Machan" in a dense forest with me enclosed inside and birds and mammals busy foraging in the vicinity of the farmhouse.At 0230 heard the cockerel Crow but strangely the flock of peacocks didn't " Meoow" in the darkness of the night.At 0300 hrs heard the sound of the train passing through Barkur.A torch is a lifeline in this farmhouse as it is absolutely dark at night .At 0430 hrs the Cockerel's started their continuous crowing waking up the neighbouring houses in the village.Strangely didn't hear the " Meoowing " of peacocks the entire night and morning.At 0500 hrs turned on the laptop and as usual the dark night of the early morning was filled with the sound of Jazz instrumental music.
At 0630 hrs strolled out of the farmhouse with binoculars on a mission of finding a tea shop in Barkur as well as sighting a few birds.Everything was closed on " Car Street" and walking towards Kalchapra came across the only open restaurant.Tea/ Medhu wada/ Bun at 0745 hrs was at " Ganesh Darshani" restaurant near Kalchapra , a typical village restaurant with name board in Kannada language and no Hindi or English subtitle.Walked back home through the same route as yesterday spotting Storks,lapwings and Ibis's in the marshy field. On arriving near " Furtado Farmhouse" took the new road across the fields leading towards the Sitanadi River front.I had last been here in 2019 for swims in the river and in 2023 just couldn't recognize the locale.There was no opening of a river beach to enter the river and once in my teen years almost drowned at this same locale with young Mr Peter.D'souza pulling me out from the river sinkhole.Walked back towards the farmhouse and spotted a pair of peacocks on a coconut tree.Further ahead in the backyard of the farmhouse came across a large family of peacocks with young chick's akin to chickens feeding in the field.On seeing me they crossed the road and went and disappeared into the dense shrubs and trees.After relaxing on the Internet headed back to " Car Street" getting a scooter lift from local Barkurian Krishna who was employed at Malpe harbour.At Kalchapra boarded a bus and alighted at Kachur village for my health drink of toddy.
In 2019 when I had ridden from Mumbai to Barkur on my " Royal Enfield" would visit the Toddy shop at Kachur to purchase Toddy for the family.In fact Peter had purchased Toddy from this place on our return from " Acharya Bettu(Gadhe) " fields but since we were in a car and he took a different route couldn't recognize this famous Toddy locale of Barkur.Finally after a long walk reached the shop and purchased a beer bottle quantity of Toddy and sat by the beautiful riverside sipping my Toddy.As mentioned before a " Solo " traveller is never alone and at the riverside Toddy bar got acquainted to local Barkurian Mr Vikram Raj and total strangers became acquaintances. He gave me a lift on his scooter to Hotel " Schuch " i Ruchi in Brahmavar. Lunch was " Kanee( Lady fish) tawa fry/ fish curry rice/ Dry Prawns chutney/Cold drink" and was surprised when the bill amounted only to Rs 140.The fish was large size similar to " Royal Inn Hotel" but definitely of a lower quality but definitely worth Rs 140.Was practically understanding the cost of living of the average working class Mangalorean. After lunch boarded the bus back to Barkur.Dinner was Masala Dosa as usual and this time at " Ganesh Darshani" which cost Rs 30 only and was excellent for the price.On my way back home came across a farm cat that had the markings of a " Adolf Hitler/Charlie Chaplin" moustache on its face.Its left eye was also injured and it kept staring at me allowing to photograph it.One of my most unique photo's of a cat.As a " DIGITAL NOMAD" living in " FURTADO FARMHOUSE " all alone with strange wildlife sounds emitting from the forest surroundings at night this palatial farmhouse stay is a totally different travel experience of my years of travel, both in India and foreign country's.
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| Two rice field of 21 cents and 15 cents situated in Mudahadu village of Barkur was fraudulently sold to Mr Purushottam Shetty representing " Prajwal Developers, Manipal, Mahe ". 1 Cent = 435.6 Sq ft . 21 Cents = 9148 Sqft 15 Cents = 6534 Sqft At present i inherit 73 Cents in Kudru of Mudahadu village. NOTE :- This piece of property is situated behind the farmhouse of Mr Francis.Furtado ( Dad's Cousin). |
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| " BARADI BEEDU KAMBALA " race track.This is a double race track for two pairs of buffaloes to compete against each other and is a artificial race track on a ground unlike normal small village Kambala's conducted on rice fields.The " Baradi Beedu Kambala " is one of the best and largest Kambala's in the Tulunadu region .This Kambala is sponsored by the " Ballal Family" who own this ground as well as vast tracts of land in the nearby villages.This Kambala is relatively new being conducted since last 37 years and inspiration for the Bangalore Kambala held for the first time in November 2023 could have been the " Baradi Beedu Kambala ". The " Ballal Family" originally made their millions through the bus transport business and have now diversified into hotels, etc. |
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| Drummers and traditional Kambala music before start of Kambala parade and races. |
At 0630 hrs strolled out of the farmhouse with binoculars on a mission of finding a tea shop in Barkur as well as sighting a few birds.Everything was closed on " Car Street" and walking towards Kalchapra came across the only open restaurant.Tea/ Medhu wada/ Bun at 0745 hrs was at " Ganesh Darshani" restaurant near Kalchapra , a typical village restaurant with name board in Kannada language and no Hindi or English subtitle.Walked back home through the same route as yesterday spotting Storks,lapwings and Ibis's in the marshy field. On arriving near " Furtado Farmhouse" took the new road across the fields leading towards the Sitanadi River front.I had last been here in 2019 for swims in the river and in 2023 just couldn't recognize the locale.There was no opening of a river beach to enter the river and once in my teen years almost drowned at this same locale with young Mr Peter.D'souza pulling me out from the river sinkhole.Walked back towards the farmhouse and spotted a pair of peacocks on a coconut tree.Further ahead in the backyard of the farmhouse came across a large family of peacocks with young chick's akin to chickens feeding in the field.On seeing me they crossed the road and went and disappeared into the dense shrubs and trees.After relaxing on the Internet headed back to " Car Street" getting a scooter lift from local Barkurian Krishna who was employed at Malpe harbour.At Kalchapra boarded a bus and alighted at Kachur village for my health drink of toddy.
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| Running of the Buffaloes. " BARADI BEEDU " Kambala in action.Witness this unique sport of South Kanara district of Karnataka at least once in your lifetime if living in India. |
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| Buffaloes being led in a single file from the parallel race track to the starting point of the race at " Baradi Beedu " Kambala. |
In 2019 when I had ridden from Mumbai to Barkur on my " Royal Enfield" would visit the Toddy shop at Kachur to purchase Toddy for the family.In fact Peter had purchased Toddy from this place on our return from " Acharya Bettu(Gadhe) " fields but since we were in a car and he took a different route couldn't recognize this famous Toddy locale of Barkur.Finally after a long walk reached the shop and purchased a beer bottle quantity of Toddy and sat by the beautiful riverside sipping my Toddy.As mentioned before a " Solo " traveller is never alone and at the riverside Toddy bar got acquainted to local Barkurian Mr Vikram Raj and total strangers became acquaintances. He gave me a lift on his scooter to Hotel " Schuch " i Ruchi in Brahmavar. Lunch was " Kanee( Lady fish) tawa fry/ fish curry rice/ Dry Prawns chutney/Cold drink" and was surprised when the bill amounted only to Rs 140.The fish was large size similar to " Royal Inn Hotel" but definitely of a lower quality but definitely worth Rs 140.Was practically understanding the cost of living of the average working class Mangalorean. After lunch boarded the bus back to Barkur.Dinner was Masala Dosa as usual and this time at " Ganesh Darshani" which cost Rs 30 only and was excellent for the price.On my way back home came across a farm cat that had the markings of a " Adolf Hitler/Charlie Chaplin" moustache on its face.Its left eye was also injured and it kept staring at me allowing to photograph it.One of my most unique photo's of a cat.As a " DIGITAL NOMAD" living in " FURTADO FARMHOUSE " all alone with strange wildlife sounds emitting from the forest surroundings at night this palatial farmhouse stay is a totally different travel experience of my years of travel, both in India and foreign country's.
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| " BARADI BEEDU KAMBALA " The human team of the " Kambala " in traditional " Tulunadu Attire" .A Ultra expensive sport akin to " HORSE RACING " with multimillionaire Feudal Landlords and present era Businessmen involved in this unique sport of " KAMBALA ( BUFFALO RACES)" |
Thursday (7/12/2023) Barkur :- At about 0430 hrs heard the loud " Meowing" of the peacocks and later the crowing of the cockerel. Heard the strange sound of some other bird species , distinctly different from the peacocks " Meooow".As usual heard the sound of the train as it passed through Barkur, distinctly clear sound in the dead silence of the night/ morning. I was living the ultimate village lifestyle in Hosala village of Barkur and strangely although living way beyond the comfort of my normal Mumbai house lifestyle loved this extreme village lifestyle.I am sure Wildlife traveller Bear Grylls would have loved residing in " Furtado Farmhouse " in its present abandoned condition.Hearing odd wildlife sounds from your home is truly a experience of a different kind.Heard the yowling of a fox but yet to spot a carnivore in the vicinity besides farm dogs and cats.As usual had a early morning walk to " Car Street" as usual spotting aquatic birds including a large Ibis.Barkur Town seems to have now been colonized by Macaque monkeys which thrive in human surroundings as food is available from shops.Took a " Selfie" with a Macaque sitting on a compound wall.Breakfast was at " Ganesh Darshani". After breakfast walked back down towards Hosala village and turned left into kachur road towards the gigantic Kotekere pond that reminded me of the Lonar crater in Buldana district of Maharashtra.This is a large natural fresh water pond situated below ground level and is a part of the Ganesh temple. Little ahead facing the Ganesh Temple is the Pancha Lingeshwara temple .Entered the temple premises after taking permission and was surprised to see a large temple ground . Have been visiting Barkur during holidays since childhood but never ever stepped inside any of these temples.Made my way back towards Hosala passing alongside Shree Eknateshwari temple onto Car Street and finally into the narrow passage leading to what was once upon a time fertile rice fields now almost all converted to farmhouses .
A few fields are still empty and have become marshland with stagnant water attracting numerous aquatic birds.
With my binoculars spotted a Bee Eater snatch a insect and relish it sitting on a wire line as is common with Bee Eaters.
Spotted Storks, Ibis's , Kingfishers and last but not the least peacocks.Bizzarely now spotting the once common chicken seemed difficult in Hosala village of Barkur as most modern farmhouses avoid keeping chicken coops.
In the 1970's/ 80's chickens sometimes used to run inside " Furtado Farmhouse" and in 2023 it's Peacocks that run across " Furtado Farmhouse" coconut estate with a large community of peacocks residing in the thick undergrowth bushes behind the house.
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| At the " Baradi Beedu Kambala " with a pair of competing buffaloes. |
After a short rest in the farmhouse put on my swimming trunks and headed to Kalchapra.Boarded the bus to Kachur and on alighting walked the familiar route to the Toddy shop farmhouse.In 2019 I used to visit the place on my motorcycle. After a swim in the Sitanadi River that was absolutely shallow except near the entry point to the river had my usual bottle of toddy drink. Excellent Toddy bar facing the Sitanadi River with pin drop silence in the surrounding village..After the Toddy drink boarded the bus to Brahmavar and lunch was at " Royal Inn" .Excellent but expensive Pomfret masala fry fish with Ukda Tandoo(Boiled Rice)/ fish curry costing Rs 730 and worth the money.After lunch walked the distance to Brahmavar City bus stand and boarded the bus to Barkur.Casually I asked the conductor about the " Handadi Kambala" tomorrow which to my dismay he said was cancelled but instead the Vandaru Kambala would be held tomorrow.Life is so bizarre that through a chance talk with the bus conductor I was guided to the right Kambala otherwise would have wasted time travelling to Vandadu and returning back as also missing the Vandaru Kambala. Travel experience saved my programme and remember it's not only youth or energy that is important in " Solo" travel but also experience.At the farmhouse on starting the pump was surprised to see the switch not operational and rang up Peter , a certified electrician by profession who arrived with his electrical tool kit.
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| One of the numerous " KAMBALA JOCKEY'S " Notice the physique,athleticism of these men akin to race horse jockeys . These top class villager athlete's have to keep pace while handling and running behind a pair of Buffaloes .World Class Olympic sprinter and a household name Usain. Bolt would admire these simple village athletes. A "Kambala Academy" was formed in 2013 where "KAMBALA JOCKEYS" are trained. In February 2020 Srinivasa Gowda of Moodabidri set a new record as the fastest in the history of Kambala jockeying.The 28-year-old took just 13.62 seconds to cover a distance of 145 metres during the race at Aikala village. This can be equated to completing 100 metres in 9.55 seconds which is faster than the 100m world record held by Jamaican athlete Usain Bolt (9.58 seconds).Srinivas.Gowda was the talk of India instantly becoming a overnight celebrity athlete.Although he didn't change over to "Track and Field" athletics as "KAMBALA" athletics and "TRACK AND FIELD" athletics are two different specialised sports he did capitalize on his fame. The rare "KAMBALA ATHLETE" to model for a company akin to film stars or cricketers and uplift his standard of living. |
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| The freak odd Kambala Buffalo which was a star attraction due to its unique eye coloring.This Buffalo was tied separately and was told it was ferocious compared to average Kambala buffaloes whom I observed were docile and easily controlled by their human handlers.Wonder about its monetary value? |
Traced the fault to the main switchboard switch being non- operational.Same was rectified and the submersible pump started.
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| Nearing the Finish Line. A closely contested Kambala.Will " MOON" or " SUN" team win ? |
Later a young man Mr Acharya came over to the farmhouse on a motorcycle and handed us the " PLAN" view drawing of " Acharya Bette" fields which measured approximately 1.7 acres.A road would be constructed along the periphery of the field of which some land would be taken from my fields.At last my father's personal property was finally having some conclusion and thanks to " Purushottam Shetty Land scam Effect" that at age 63 have lost certain fears and gained new fears .Change is permanent. Ahoy ! Dinner was the usual " Masala Dosa".In the evening Peter and myself drove to lawyer Neil.Pereira's house for legal matters regarding the " Acharya Bette" land.Back home away from home got busy on Internet and music.The " STOCK MARKET" was on a unbelievable " BUFFALO RUN" not " BULL RUN" and was hoping this run was just the beginning of the "Rakesh Jhunjhunwala" optimism on Indian stocks. As for me " BULL RUN" or " BEAR RUN " has made no difference to my lifestyle or living standards.I lived the same lifestyle during the " BEAR PHASE" of " Covid 19" and now it's a " BULL PHASE" and my lifestyle hasn't changed.Life is too short in the long run and make use of every day as if it's your last day on Planet Earth.Apologize for the talk on philosophy.
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| " Senior Buffaloes ( A bove 6 years age)" all set to participate in the Kambala after end of " Junior Buffaloes ( Below 6 years age) |
Friday(8/12/2023) Barkur :-My sleep has suffered the most in Barkur, reduced to 2 hrs from normal 4 hrs otherwise absolutely happy living in this isolated farmhouse in the midst of a forest.In the morning at 0630 left the farmhouse and did the familiar walk towards Kalchapra bus stand.On the way spotted a few common white Ibis and a large bird that resembled a stork, a bird I saw for the first time in these field.After quick tea boarded the bus to Vandaru.Reached Vandaru at 0745 hrs and it was a long walk from the bus stop to the Kambala fields.On reaching the temple realized that there was no running of buffaloes at this Kambala but just a religious ritual of the cows being walked through the water logged rice field.Another big hurdle was language as no one understood Hindi gluently.let alone English, a typical local village Kannadiga carnival of religious temple rituals.Thankfully at a tea stall a local told me the Baradi Kambala was tomorrow, a major Kambala event having two pairs of buffaloes competing against each other.Decided to call it a day at Vandaru and boarded a autorickshaw to the bus stop at s rental of Rs 60.The Vandaru trip was not a total write-off as I got to see the religious aspect of the festival among the common coastal kannadiga villagers.On arrival at Kalchapra rang up Mr Peter.D'souza and we decided to visit the original Furtado ancestral house of Grandfather in Mudahadu village òf Barkur situated on the opposite side of Hosala village across the River Sitanadi.This house was later given to a tenant named Smt Narsee who was employed in field cultivation of grandfather and later Uncle William.She vacated the house and the same house and surrounding coconut trees were given to Dad during partition of Grandfather Eusebius.Furtado's property among his children.
When I had visited the property in 2008 with Uncle William it was in the form of a historical ruin and today in 2023 when I visited the same locale with Peter the house ruins had vanished totally covered by vegetation with the coconut garden plot resembling a mini buffer zone of a National park .
In fact in front of the house was a large grassland area that resembled the Savannah grasslands of Africa,ideal cheetah habitat except that during monsoon this part of Barkur gets flooded.The only house in the vicinity was Dad's cousin's Mr Ignatius
When I had visited the property in 2008 with Uncle William it was in the form of a historical ruin and today in 2023 when I visited the same locale with Peter the house ruins had vanished totally covered by vegetation with the coconut garden plot resembling a mini buffer zone of a National park .
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| At Maternal cousin Mr Hubert. Gonsalves 's farmhouse at Mabukal on banks of Sitanadi River.A House Boat is undergoing repairs on the river bed beach next to his farmhouse. |
In fact in front of the house was a large grassland area that resembled the Savannah grasslands of Africa,ideal cheetah habitat except that during monsoon this part of Barkur gets flooded.The only house in the vicinity was Dad's cousin's Mr Ignatius
Furtado's farmhouse situated in front of Dad's inherited ruins and forest land. now occupied by his son Mr Francis.Furtado.The 2 fields usurped by Mr Purushottam Shetty was in this Kudru village of Mudahadu and seems he has purchased or usurped most of the farmland in the vicinity of Mudahadu village.There were rumours of a "Airport" being built in this locale and hence it seems Mr Purushottam.Shetty went on a land buying/usurping spree in Kudru region of Madahadu village. Rumours are rumours and i hope a small national park is recreated in this desolate region of Barkur that is a mix or tropical and Savannah forest . Had a talk with Mr Francis.Furtado and returned back to Barkur on the way stopping at Kachur for health drink what the Doctor did not recommend " Toddy".Lunch was Medu Vada / chutney and on returning home away from home had a bathe as Barkur and in fact entire Mangalore region weather is humid.At home in Mumbai I have a motorcycle and 2 cycles for commuting and here in Barkur I couldn't get a cycle for hire which again made me realize that never take anything in life for granted.We don't realize the importance of anything unless we miss it.Later after some rest walked back to Kalchapra and boarded the bus to Brahmavar. A late lunch at 1530 hrs was at Hotel " Schuchi Ruchi ", the working class Non- Vegetarian Mangalorean hotel in Brahmavar.Within Rs 150 a person can have a lunch of " Rice curry/ fish".Whenever I travel in any country, city, town or village always taste the cheapest as well as premium food products.Purchased my ordinary non- A/C return bus ticket to Mumbai costing Rs 1800,the effects of inflation on surge in prices of private bus travel having last travelled by the "Mangalore-Mumbai " bus in the 20th century .Also the buses no more end up in South Mumbai like when I travelled in 1970's/ 80's but in the suburbs of Mumbai with maximum being Bandra.Travel educates.
Back home away from home Bharathi the lady who cleans " Furtado Farmhouse " every Friday arrived for her duty and efficiently completed the same.Manual domestic labour is at a premium in Mangalore ,Udupi and the villages .It's akin to labour in Developed First World Country's. Was absolutely tired as my sleep had deteriorated from normal 4 to 2 hrs and extreme adventurer Bear Grylls or a Jarawa tribe member would have found living alone in " Furtado Farmhouse " in its present condition challenging. I was bitten by insects which included forest mosquitoes.What is life without adventure and at times living beyond your normal comfort zone.The fruit bats didn't enter the house at night unlike my first night on Saturday (2/12/2023) which was straight out of a extreme adventure film.Cousin Mr Charles.Martin.Furtado maintains the upkeep of this large inherited farmhouse through his local resident friend Mr Peter.D'souza but I feel unless someone occasionally or permanently lives in this farmhouse it will gradually deteriorate.Unlike flats/ apartments in private buildings its difficult to maintain private Bungalows, farmhouses if they are locked and unoccupied.
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| Ro/ Ro vessel plying between Hungarcutta and Bengre. |
Back home away from home Bharathi the lady who cleans " Furtado Farmhouse " every Friday arrived for her duty and efficiently completed the same.Manual domestic labour is at a premium in Mangalore ,Udupi and the villages .It's akin to labour in Developed First World Country's. Was absolutely tired as my sleep had deteriorated from normal 4 to 2 hrs and extreme adventurer Bear Grylls or a Jarawa tribe member would have found living alone in " Furtado Farmhouse " in its present condition challenging. I was bitten by insects which included forest mosquitoes.What is life without adventure and at times living beyond your normal comfort zone.The fruit bats didn't enter the house at night unlike my first night on Saturday (2/12/2023) which was straight out of a extreme adventure film.Cousin Mr Charles.Martin.Furtado maintains the upkeep of this large inherited farmhouse through his local resident friend Mr Peter.D'souza but I feel unless someone occasionally or permanently lives in this farmhouse it will gradually deteriorate.Unlike flats/ apartments in private buildings its difficult to maintain private Bungalows, farmhouses if they are locked and unoccupied.
Saturday (9/12/2023) Barkur : - The distance between Barkur and Baradi Beedu was approximately 60 Kms by road. At 0720 boarded the bus at Kalchapra to Manipal.Reached Manipal Kasturba hospital bus stand at 0800 hrs and luckily got the connecting red coloured bus to Karakala.
Reached Karkala, a real large town at 0900 hrs, the bus ticket being Rs 54.At Karkala Main City bus stand was told to board the local bus heading to Moodabidri and to alight at " Chimbi/ Baradi cross road" and then board a rickshaw to finally reach " Baradi Beedu Kambala " ground.Complicated jig-saw puzzle directions.The journey and not the destination is the adventure of Nomadic travel.
Did the same and at 0945 hrs was at " Baradi Beedu Kambala" ground.This was a huge ground and not a rice field as were the other village Kambala's with a artificial double lane slush track filled with water constructed on the ground as seen in video's , similar to the artificial Kambala track of Bangalore Palace grounds.When I arrived the first event of the day was being inaugurated with the " Korga Drummers" and musicians leading the fan fare of handlers taking their buffaloes onto the race track to the " START POINT" for the " NEGILU " race for young Juvenile buffaloes below 6 years of age.I had got a very vantage Viewpoint near the finish line of the race and it was thrilling watching pairs of buffaloes run past the " Finish Line" in serial order as these were single race elimination rounds with the pair with best timings being selected.
One of the officials seated in the officials section explained me the basic format of the races .
The " Baradi Beedu Kambala " was a 2 day extravaganza with the Kambala races ending probably tomorrow on Sunday afternoon.The main events would begin from afternoon with the peak being throughout the night until the end on Sunday afternoon or evening.In my lifetime I had never seen these many buffaloes at one single place and the sight of pair after pair of buffaloes arriving at the " Start Point" of the race track was unbelievable. Lots of various eatable stalls on the ground and I ate some fruit salads.Strolled across various sections of the kambala ground and was happy to be at the right place at the right time to witness one of the best professionally organized Kambala's of the Tulunadu region of Karnataka and Kasargod in Kerala.
It was like being at the Mahalaxmi race-course on Indian Derby day only difference that this was a Buffalo and not horse race and the venue a village ground.I was tired and spotted a empty chair near a empty table with two young men near the table relishing some local delicacy.Requested the younger gentleman dressed in the traditional Mundu if I could use the chair little realizing that I was speaking to the organizer and owner of the " Baradi Beedu Kambala " Mr Nishan.Ballal of the " Ballal Family" who were the first business family to introduce private luxury buses on the Bombay- Mangalore route and vice - versa.Today with competition in the luxury bus service they have diversified into hotel industry and in fact owned almost the entire village of Baradi Beedu.Nishan and Sanjay.Ballal were extremely courteous and even invited me to their heritage house situated nearby for lunch.Yes true, for lunch.Told them I was full with eatables and young Mr Nishan .Ballal a B.B.A student studying in Bangalore gave me his phone number in case I required any assistance at the Kambala.They were seated in the V.I.P enclosure situated at the " Finish Line" of the water logged Kambala Race Track.Strolled around various parts of the ground having a look at the " Unsaddling paddock" where the buffaloes were washed and cleaned after the race.It was a absolute carnival atmosphere and the language of communication Kannada.
I only spoke in English language to Mr Nishan and Mr Sanjay.Ballal otherwise even Hindi language seemed alien in this typical village gathering identical to " Horse Racing" with wealthy " Landlords/ Tulu Businessmen( Read Hoteliers)" owning the buffaloes while the common villagers were the spectators akin to punters in a horse racecourse.
Only difference being that there was no " Official gambling" although I am 100% sure unofficial gambling was part of the Kambala as in " Cricket".Prized buffaloes were valued at Rs 15 lakhs while juveniles sold for a lakh or less depending on pedigree.Spotted a unique isolated adult Buffalo with unique frightening Grey coloured eyes and was told this bull Buffalo was also ferocious.a prized freak and would definitely cost a fortune.Language was a bigger hurdle than in Europe as besides Kannada very few common local villagers were fluent in Hindi.Spoke to Mr Trishal.Pujari the owner of a stable of 5 buffaloes and he told me that the average expenditure of maintaining a single buffalo amounted to Rs 20,000/ month at the basic minimum with no " Upper Limit" depending on the financial status of the owner.I know how much it costs to maintain household pets and purchasing a Buffalo or a racehorse is the easiest part of ownership while maintenance is the most difficult akin to a house pet.Admired the athletic physique of the Kambala jockey's who had to have a speed of a sprinter and maintain a fitness diet to be in prime physical form to keep pace with the sprinting buffaloes.Tasted a new non- alcoholic drink " Mirchi Matka Soda" served in a clay pot and really something different with a taste of lime juice and mint.Requested a kambala Jockey to give me his whip as a memento replacing the same with one purchased from the local vendor selling Kambala artifacts on the ground.He refused to part with his whip and as a sportsman and speculator myself agreed with his reasoning as " LUCK" plays a important role in any walk of life , least of all in a dangerous man- animal sport of Kambala.Every sports person has some " Goodluck" memento or a superstition in dress code or religion while going onto the field to participate.Finally after watching the adult buffaloes being saddled for their race made my way out of the Kambala ground and boarded a shared autorickshaw to the Baradi Beedu bypass road and after a short wait boarded the Moodabidri- Karkala bus to Karakala.
From Karkala boarded the bus to Udupi and on arriving at Udupi city bus stand had to walk a short uphill distance to the main Udupi bus stand.Was lucky to get a direct bus to Barkur which got packed to capacity as the journey progressed.Finally in Barkur for the first time since arrival got to view Barkur nightlife with most shops closing at 2000 hrs and only bars and a few hotels open .Dinner was Masala Dosa and purchased a Kingfisher beer which I drank at the farmhouse along with cashew nuts and bananas.A end to a excellent day of long distance " Solo Travel" and watching one of the the best professionally organized Kambala.
Reached Karkala, a real large town at 0900 hrs, the bus ticket being Rs 54.At Karkala Main City bus stand was told to board the local bus heading to Moodabidri and to alight at " Chimbi/ Baradi cross road" and then board a rickshaw to finally reach " Baradi Beedu Kambala " ground.Complicated jig-saw puzzle directions.The journey and not the destination is the adventure of Nomadic travel.
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| After lunch at maternal cousin Oswald.Gonsalves farmhouse in Hungarcutta it was a drink of " Toddy" at Kachur Toddy farmhouse in Barkur Town. |
Did the same and at 0945 hrs was at " Baradi Beedu Kambala" ground.This was a huge ground and not a rice field as were the other village Kambala's with a artificial double lane slush track filled with water constructed on the ground as seen in video's , similar to the artificial Kambala track of Bangalore Palace grounds.When I arrived the first event of the day was being inaugurated with the " Korga Drummers" and musicians leading the fan fare of handlers taking their buffaloes onto the race track to the " START POINT" for the " NEGILU " race for young Juvenile buffaloes below 6 years of age.I had got a very vantage Viewpoint near the finish line of the race and it was thrilling watching pairs of buffaloes run past the " Finish Line" in serial order as these were single race elimination rounds with the pair with best timings being selected.
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| " RATNA" a heritage 150 years + Farmhouse at Kalchapra next to " Ramachandra Pathardi Temple " on Car street of Barkur. The owners of this 19th century house Mr Suresh.Pai and his wife Mrs Nirmala.Pai invited me inside their house which was akin to visiting a museum.Well preserved antiques and furniture dating back to another era of history.Felt I was on a " Film Set" of a house recreating 19th century Barkur aristocracy. NOTE:- Notice a modern apartment building under construction next to 150 years + " RATNA" Farmhouse. This plot also belonged to a family member of Mr Suresh.Pai who sold it to a builder and a modern 21st century building will replace a once heritage house.Only hope " RATNA" is preserved as a museum house by the " Pai family" who are distantly related to the " Pai family" of Manipal who founded Manipal as a International educational town.Maintaining such a mini palace costs a fortune and if the Pai family finds it difficult to maintain the same hope the Karnataka State Government preserves this unique building as a historical museum. |
One of the officials seated in the officials section explained me the basic format of the races .
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| A view of the 19th century designed Drawing room of palatial " Ratna ' farmhouse owned by Mr Suresh.Pai.Notice the teak wood support beams.Even " Furtado Farmhouse " which is over 100 years old has same type of teak wood support beam pillars. |
The " Baradi Beedu Kambala " was a 2 day extravaganza with the Kambala races ending probably tomorrow on Sunday afternoon.The main events would begin from afternoon with the peak being throughout the night until the end on Sunday afternoon or evening.In my lifetime I had never seen these many buffaloes at one single place and the sight of pair after pair of buffaloes arriving at the " Start Point" of the race track was unbelievable. Lots of various eatable stalls on the ground and I ate some fruit salads.Strolled across various sections of the kambala ground and was happy to be at the right place at the right time to witness one of the best professionally organized Kambala's of the Tulunadu region of Karnataka and Kasargod in Kerala.
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| Relaxing at " Padubidri End Point Blue Flag " Beach. |
It was like being at the Mahalaxmi race-course on Indian Derby day only difference that this was a Buffalo and not horse race and the venue a village ground.I was tired and spotted a empty chair near a empty table with two young men near the table relishing some local delicacy.Requested the younger gentleman dressed in the traditional Mundu if I could use the chair little realizing that I was speaking to the organizer and owner of the " Baradi Beedu Kambala " Mr Nishan.Ballal of the " Ballal Family" who were the first business family to introduce private luxury buses on the Bombay- Mangalore route and vice - versa.Today with competition in the luxury bus service they have diversified into hotel industry and in fact owned almost the entire village of Baradi Beedu.Nishan and Sanjay.Ballal were extremely courteous and even invited me to their heritage house situated nearby for lunch.Yes true, for lunch.Told them I was full with eatables and young Mr Nishan .Ballal a B.B.A student studying in Bangalore gave me his phone number in case I required any assistance at the Kambala.They were seated in the V.I.P enclosure situated at the " Finish Line" of the water logged Kambala Race Track.Strolled around various parts of the ground having a look at the " Unsaddling paddock" where the buffaloes were washed and cleaned after the race.It was a absolute carnival atmosphere and the language of communication Kannada.
I only spoke in English language to Mr Nishan and Mr Sanjay.Ballal otherwise even Hindi language seemed alien in this typical village gathering identical to " Horse Racing" with wealthy " Landlords/ Tulu Businessmen( Read Hoteliers)" owning the buffaloes while the common villagers were the spectators akin to punters in a horse racecourse.
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| A sea dip at " Padubidri End Point Blue Flag " Beach. Sea was very rough at High tide and I was the lone tourist to take a Sea dip.Waves were very powerful and a swimmer could easily be swept away. One of the 12 " BLUE FLAG" certified beaches in entire India. |
Only difference being that there was no " Official gambling" although I am 100% sure unofficial gambling was part of the Kambala as in " Cricket".Prized buffaloes were valued at Rs 15 lakhs while juveniles sold for a lakh or less depending on pedigree.Spotted a unique isolated adult Buffalo with unique frightening Grey coloured eyes and was told this bull Buffalo was also ferocious.a prized freak and would definitely cost a fortune.Language was a bigger hurdle than in Europe as besides Kannada very few common local villagers were fluent in Hindi.Spoke to Mr Trishal.Pujari the owner of a stable of 5 buffaloes and he told me that the average expenditure of maintaining a single buffalo amounted to Rs 20,000/ month at the basic minimum with no " Upper Limit" depending on the financial status of the owner.I know how much it costs to maintain household pets and purchasing a Buffalo or a racehorse is the easiest part of ownership while maintenance is the most difficult akin to a house pet.Admired the athletic physique of the Kambala jockey's who had to have a speed of a sprinter and maintain a fitness diet to be in prime physical form to keep pace with the sprinting buffaloes.Tasted a new non- alcoholic drink " Mirchi Matka Soda" served in a clay pot and really something different with a taste of lime juice and mint.Requested a kambala Jockey to give me his whip as a memento replacing the same with one purchased from the local vendor selling Kambala artifacts on the ground.He refused to part with his whip and as a sportsman and speculator myself agreed with his reasoning as " LUCK" plays a important role in any walk of life , least of all in a dangerous man- animal sport of Kambala.Every sports person has some " Goodluck" memento or a superstition in dress code or religion while going onto the field to participate.Finally after watching the adult buffaloes being saddled for their race made my way out of the Kambala ground and boarded a shared autorickshaw to the Baradi Beedu bypass road and after a short wait boarded the Moodabidri- Karkala bus to Karakala.
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| View of " Kamini River" that flows into the Arabian sea at " Padubidri End Point " Beach. |
From Karkala boarded the bus to Udupi and on arriving at Udupi city bus stand had to walk a short uphill distance to the main Udupi bus stand.Was lucky to get a direct bus to Barkur which got packed to capacity as the journey progressed.Finally in Barkur for the first time since arrival got to view Barkur nightlife with most shops closing at 2000 hrs and only bars and a few hotels open .Dinner was Masala Dosa and purchased a Kingfisher beer which I drank at the farmhouse along with cashew nuts and bananas.A end to a excellent day of long distance " Solo Travel" and watching one of the the best professionally organized Kambala.
Sunday(10/12/2023) Barkur :- There was heavy rainfall at approximately 0300 hrs in the morning, freak December rain.There is daily load shedding but due to the rains there was no power supply.Lots of mosquitoes but thankfully not the malaria causing mosquitoes. The fruit bats no.more fly over my bed and seems my presence besides the weekly house cleaning of maid Bharathi has brought some sort of orderliness in this uninhabited palatial farmhouse once upon a time filled with members of the Furtado family.Change is permanent.
Suddenly i heard the loud sound of peacock and thinking the bird had entered the house or was just outside the house rushed out to see a peacock just in front of the main house door which flew onto the coconut tree on seeing me approach.yes a peacock flew over Furtado farmhouse.
I presume a entire peacock family is living in the dense thorn bushes at the backside of the house.Got dressed and made my way towards Barkur Town. After a quick breakfast of Idli/tea made my way to St Peters church.After mass visited the church cemetery that was very well maintained.While walking back to the farmhouse met Mr Peter.D'souza and his family in their car on way to Barkur town.Discussed my property matter and headed to the farmhouse.Realized that the "Barkur Kambala" was held yesterday, the same day that i had visited the Baradi Beedu Kambala.Decided to visit maternal cousins Hubert and Oswald.Gonsalves if they were free as Sunday was normally a holiday for staff as well as proprietors.Rang up Oswald.Gonsalves and he invited me for lunch.Boarded the bus to Brahmavar and from Brahmavar the bus to Coondapura alighting at Mabukal. mum's ancestral farmhouse.Mr Hubert Gonsalves was awaiting my arrival at Mabukal bus stand and riding pillion on his bike first passed alongside Mum's ancestral farmhouse situated against the scenic river and now under some stranger's ownership. The original over 100 years farmhouse had been demolished to make way for a building that was incomplete and grotesque in appearance. Only the stable was not demolished of this once upon a time 100 years + house.Change is permanant.Next Hubert took me to his house situated on the other side of Mabukal bridge on the banks of the Sitanadi river which formerly was Grandfather's tenant's house.Hubert's wife and children were away from home and was amazed to see a large houseboat on the river bed beach next to Hubert's small farmhouse being replaced with steel platings by a few welder's.Hubert told me that these workers were from "Waterways Shpiyard Private Ltd" based at Hungarcutta fishing port.
I never dreamt that one day a large boat would be repaired in the backyard of my grandfather's property as this was a shallow beach where as teenager's we used to swim and collect shells when on "Mulluk( Hindi slang for ancestral home) holidays" from Bombay .From Hubert's house rode pillion to Oswald's house and on the way spotted a beautiful male peacock in full bloom feathers sitting like a chicken in a field.Finally arrived at Hungarcutta and Oswald's home .His wife Saritha and three young daughters were at home.Oswald took us for a tour of Hungarcutta in his car and was amazed to see a giant size ship being built on the slipway at "Waterways Shipyard Private Ltd".A Ro/Ro Ferry service had also started since last year plying vehicles between Hungarcutta and Bengre on the opposite side of the River Sitanadi.Bengre and Hungarcutta were the source of the Sitanadi river where she emptied out into the Arabian sea.Bengre beach is a popular tourist beach and hence the recently commissioned Ro/Ro boat service from Hungarcutta to Bengre.I had visited Hungarcutta last year on my motorcycle along with Oswald and the only change was the giant ship being built at "Waterways Shipyard Private Ltd" and the "Ro/Ro passenger ferry to Bengre. Change is Permenant.After the bief Hungarcutta sightseeing returned back home and had my first home made food after leaving Mumbai.I normally always refuse to stay for food unless invited to a party or function as it inconveniences a family although one person won't have much impact on amount of food cooked.After lunch bid goodbye to Oswald's family and Hubert with Oswald opting to drop me to Barkur farmhouse.
Passed through some of the familiar landmarks of Mabukal and Sasthan including the famous Sasthan fish market, a landmark fish market in Udupi district for best quality fresh fish.
Oswald parked next to "H.K.Fisheries" a wholesale fish dealer and for the first time in my life got to view a variety of different species sold in a single shop and not a large fish market.Top most quality priced fish like lobster's were on sale along with sardines,the cheapest edible fish.This small shop in a village catered to all economic backgrounds, excellent and hope big city's like Mumbai replicate the same.On arrival at Barkur after a short rest changed into my swimming costume and we both headed to Kachur village for medical tonic "Toddy".
After drinking toddy at leisure seated by the river bank facing the beautiful Sitanadi river Oswald drove home to Hungarcutta while although it was peak low tide i decided to swim in the deep just next to the river bank.It was akin to swimming in the shallow level of a swimming pool and although couldn't float on my back managed to do my "Aqua Yoga" through innovative means.At 1700 hrs the buses arriving from brahmavar were packed and worse than travelling in a local train in Mumbai during peak hours.Walked the distance from Kachur to Barkur and at Kalchapra came across a large religious fair in progress with various stalls set alongside Barkur Car Street road.The Kalikamba temple is a 14th century shrine situated on Barkur and is one of the ancient shrines in the district. The temple enshrines a beautiful idol of Goddess Kalikamba carved out of "Neelanjana" granite and today was a annual day pilgrimage of the temples devotees and hence the stalls lining car street.As i was speaking to one of the stall owners outside a large tiled house on Car Street a elderly lady spoke to me in English explaining me the festival and so Mrs Nirmala.Pai invited me to enter her150 year old house and meet her husband Mr Suresh.Pai.I entered this imposing house named "RATNA" which resembled a normal ordinary house from outside with "Furtado Farmhouse" in comparison towering in external size and it was akin to entering the house or Palace of a scion of a Royal Princely family. Heirloom art furniture dating back to over 100 years was on display in the main drawing room and honestly it was a mini palace in design as well as furniture and construction.
There was a seperate room for Puja as they normally show in wealthy homes in Hindi movies.Some of the house tiles dated back to the 1800's and in the backyard of the house was a small "Nag Mandir(Snake Temple)" where a priest came daily to perform puja.
The house main door dating back to over a century had a hidden lock mechanism for opening from inside to prevent a thief from fleeing once inside the house.Felt i was on the artificial sets of a film studio rather than a common house with very modest house owners.Truth is stranger than fiction.Have passed this house whenever walking past Kalchapra but never bothered a second thought about its historical value or its occupants as it seemed just another large bungalow house of which numerous dot Barkur let alone other villages of Mangalore and Udupi district.This house was inherited by Mr Suresh.Pai and only he and his wife Nirmala lived in this mini Palace as their only daughter stayed elsewhere.The Pai family, founder's of Manipal City to whom Mr Suresh.Pai is distantly related were their guests on many occasions.Mrs Nirmala.Pai also explained me the significance of a few prominent temple's in Barkur which is nicknamed the "Temple Town" of the State of Karnataka.Back at the home away from home " Furtado Farmhouse " relaxed on the laptop to music and blogging.
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| After a dip in Padubidri End Point beach a lavish " Fish Thali" at plush " Kediyoor Gazebo " restaurant near Udupi bus stand. |
I presume a entire peacock family is living in the dense thorn bushes at the backside of the house.Got dressed and made my way towards Barkur Town. After a quick breakfast of Idli/tea made my way to St Peters church.After mass visited the church cemetery that was very well maintained.While walking back to the farmhouse met Mr Peter.D'souza and his family in their car on way to Barkur town.Discussed my property matter and headed to the farmhouse.Realized that the "Barkur Kambala" was held yesterday, the same day that i had visited the Baradi Beedu Kambala.Decided to visit maternal cousins Hubert and Oswald.Gonsalves if they were free as Sunday was normally a holiday for staff as well as proprietors.Rang up Oswald.Gonsalves and he invited me for lunch.Boarded the bus to Brahmavar and from Brahmavar the bus to Coondapura alighting at Mabukal. mum's ancestral farmhouse.Mr Hubert Gonsalves was awaiting my arrival at Mabukal bus stand and riding pillion on his bike first passed alongside Mum's ancestral farmhouse situated against the scenic river and now under some stranger's ownership. The original over 100 years farmhouse had been demolished to make way for a building that was incomplete and grotesque in appearance. Only the stable was not demolished of this once upon a time 100 years + house.Change is permanant.Next Hubert took me to his house situated on the other side of Mabukal bridge on the banks of the Sitanadi river which formerly was Grandfather's tenant's house.Hubert's wife and children were away from home and was amazed to see a large houseboat on the river bed beach next to Hubert's small farmhouse being replaced with steel platings by a few welder's.Hubert told me that these workers were from "Waterways Shpiyard Private Ltd" based at Hungarcutta fishing port.
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| " Udupi Cochin Shipyard Ltd" looms large over Malpe Fishing port. |
I never dreamt that one day a large boat would be repaired in the backyard of my grandfather's property as this was a shallow beach where as teenager's we used to swim and collect shells when on "Mulluk( Hindi slang for ancestral home) holidays" from Bombay .From Hubert's house rode pillion to Oswald's house and on the way spotted a beautiful male peacock in full bloom feathers sitting like a chicken in a field.Finally arrived at Hungarcutta and Oswald's home .His wife Saritha and three young daughters were at home.Oswald took us for a tour of Hungarcutta in his car and was amazed to see a giant size ship being built on the slipway at "Waterways Shipyard Private Ltd".A Ro/Ro Ferry service had also started since last year plying vehicles between Hungarcutta and Bengre on the opposite side of the River Sitanadi.Bengre and Hungarcutta were the source of the Sitanadi river where she emptied out into the Arabian sea.Bengre beach is a popular tourist beach and hence the recently commissioned Ro/Ro boat service from Hungarcutta to Bengre.I had visited Hungarcutta last year on my motorcycle along with Oswald and the only change was the giant ship being built at "Waterways Shipyard Private Ltd" and the "Ro/Ro passenger ferry to Bengre. Change is Permenant.After the bief Hungarcutta sightseeing returned back home and had my first home made food after leaving Mumbai.I normally always refuse to stay for food unless invited to a party or function as it inconveniences a family although one person won't have much impact on amount of food cooked.After lunch bid goodbye to Oswald's family and Hubert with Oswald opting to drop me to Barkur farmhouse.
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| View of Malpe Fishing port ,a natural Port. Packed to capacity with fishing trawlers.Malpe Port is situated at the confluence of the Udyavara River and the Arabian sea . |
Passed through some of the familiar landmarks of Mabukal and Sasthan including the famous Sasthan fish market, a landmark fish market in Udupi district for best quality fresh fish.
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| At Malpe Jetty to board the launch to St Mary's Island. |
Oswald parked next to "H.K.Fisheries" a wholesale fish dealer and for the first time in my life got to view a variety of different species sold in a single shop and not a large fish market.Top most quality priced fish like lobster's were on sale along with sardines,the cheapest edible fish.This small shop in a village catered to all economic backgrounds, excellent and hope big city's like Mumbai replicate the same.On arrival at Barkur after a short rest changed into my swimming costume and we both headed to Kachur village for medical tonic "Toddy".
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| At Malpe Jetty. Sea and boats have always been a part of my living. |
After drinking toddy at leisure seated by the river bank facing the beautiful Sitanadi river Oswald drove home to Hungarcutta while although it was peak low tide i decided to swim in the deep just next to the river bank.It was akin to swimming in the shallow level of a swimming pool and although couldn't float on my back managed to do my "Aqua Yoga" through innovative means.At 1700 hrs the buses arriving from brahmavar were packed and worse than travelling in a local train in Mumbai during peak hours.Walked the distance from Kachur to Barkur and at Kalchapra came across a large religious fair in progress with various stalls set alongside Barkur Car Street road.The Kalikamba temple is a 14th century shrine situated on Barkur and is one of the ancient shrines in the district. The temple enshrines a beautiful idol of Goddess Kalikamba carved out of "Neelanjana" granite and today was a annual day pilgrimage of the temples devotees and hence the stalls lining car street.As i was speaking to one of the stall owners outside a large tiled house on Car Street a elderly lady spoke to me in English explaining me the festival and so Mrs Nirmala.Pai invited me to enter her150 year old house and meet her husband Mr Suresh.Pai.I entered this imposing house named "RATNA" which resembled a normal ordinary house from outside with "Furtado Farmhouse" in comparison towering in external size and it was akin to entering the house or Palace of a scion of a Royal Princely family. Heirloom art furniture dating back to over 100 years was on display in the main drawing room and honestly it was a mini palace in design as well as furniture and construction.
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| A view of " MALPE SEA WALK" that begins from Malpe boat jetty and stretches out into the sea built on breakwater rocks that lead to the Entrance/ Exit channel of boats to Malpe Port.This is the longest sea walk in the State of Karnataka. |
There was a seperate room for Puja as they normally show in wealthy homes in Hindi movies.Some of the house tiles dated back to the 1800's and in the backyard of the house was a small "Nag Mandir(Snake Temple)" where a priest came daily to perform puja.
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| On the local bus travelling from Brahmavar to Barkur. One of the few instances in my lifetime where I have traveled in such a jam packed bus. Local bus travel in Mangalore during peak hours is akin to travel by local trains in Mumbai during peak office hours Travel Educates ! |
The house main door dating back to over a century had a hidden lock mechanism for opening from inside to prevent a thief from fleeing once inside the house.Felt i was on the artificial sets of a film studio rather than a common house with very modest house owners.Truth is stranger than fiction.Have passed this house whenever walking past Kalchapra but never bothered a second thought about its historical value or its occupants as it seemed just another large bungalow house of which numerous dot Barkur let alone other villages of Mangalore and Udupi district.This house was inherited by Mr Suresh.Pai and only he and his wife Nirmala lived in this mini Palace as their only daughter stayed elsewhere.The Pai family, founder's of Manipal City to whom Mr Suresh.Pai is distantly related were their guests on many occasions.Mrs Nirmala.Pai also explained me the significance of a few prominent temple's in Barkur which is nicknamed the "Temple Town" of the State of Karnataka.Back at the home away from home " Furtado Farmhouse " relaxed on the laptop to music and blogging.
Monday(11/12/2023) Barkur:- As usual at 0130 hrs the flock of resident peacocks of " Furtado Farmhouse " estate lit up the surroundings with their shrill " MEOOOW " voices.In the morning at 0715 hrs left the farmhouse and headed to Kalchapra bus stop.Breakfast was usually idli/ wada/ tea. After breakfast boarded the packed bus to Udupi bus terminus.At Udupi was lucky to immediately get the connecting link bus to Mangalore city passing through Padubidri.On reaching Padubidri inquiring directions and crossed the highway road onto the other side and on a fare of Rs 90 hired a autorickshaw to drive me to " PADUBIDRI END POINT BLUE FLAG BEACH".It was a short 2.5 Km drive to the entrance gate of " PADUBIDRI END POINT BEACH".
I was early at 0900 hrs and on purchasing the entrance ticket costing Rs 30 made my way inside one of the only 12 " Blue flag " beaches in India.In October I had visited the " BLUE FLAG" beaches of " Thunda Beach" in Minicoy of the Lakshadweep islands and " Radhanagar Beach" on Havelock island of Andaman and Nicobar Island's.
" Padubidri End Point Beach" would be my third " Blue Flag " Beach visit in India although have swum in most of the prominent beaches in India. It was " High tide" when I entered at 0900 hrs and made myself comfortable under a reclining sitout umbrella shack.Absolutely clean beach and clear light green coloured water as the weather was cloudy, excellent for swimming on beaches .Swimming opens at 0930 hrs and very well maintained beach with life guards on duty and beach cleaners clearing minor waste products that litter the beach sand.Had frequent dips in the sea as swimming was out of question due to the rough waves hitting the beach.Surfing seems to be popular on this beach as there were surfers near the extreme endpoint where the Kamini River flows into the Arabian sea at Padubidri beach .
I was the lone tourist on the entire beach taking dips in the rough sea.At 1100 hrs called it a day, changed and made my exit.
Had to call for a autorickshaw by phone from the receptionist as "Padubidri Endpoint beach" is really at a remote end of Padubidri village where besides tourists no one would want to travel to this remote locale.
The rickshaw driver dropped me at the main highway bus stop the charges being a standard fare of Rs 90.Boarded the bus to Udupi and on reaching Udupi bus stop enquired about "Kediyoor Hotel" a reference given to me by cousin Oswald.Gonsalves.It was a plush restaurant and lunch was a "Fish Thali" costing Rs 420 and worth the money and ambiance.After lunch walked over to the city bus stand and boarded the bus to Malpe.Had visited Malpe in 2008 and hence on alighting the bus and walking towards the Port was surprised to see the large shipbuilding yard of " Udupi Cochin Shipyard Ltd" dominating the port skyline. Asking directions inquired about "Malpe Sea Walk" promenade , a recent addition to the tourism development of Malpe Beach.Also inquired the cost of ferry tickets to St Mary's Island which was Rs 300 for a return trip to this small island situated just of the coast of Malpe beach.which i had visited earlier .As it was a working day and a hot afternoon at 1400 hrs the "Malpe Sea Walk" was absolutely empty akin to "Padubidri End Point beach" in the morning.Except for a few collegians romancing near the entrance the entire stretch of the promenade was empty and walked to the end point of the promenade where i came across a few young men returning back and requested one of them to take my photograph on my camera for memories of "Being there, Done that".From the Malpe walkway promenade the viewer gets a close-up view of the trawlers entering the harbour from the Arabian sea.Was also surprised at the large amount of fishing trawlers in the port wondering about the manoeuvrability for leaving and entering the clustered port.Finally boarded the bus to Udupi City bus stop .
From Udupi bus terminus boarded the empty bus heading to Barkur which gradually got packed with passengers mostly school children and at Brahmavar the bus packed with school students resembled a packed Mumbai local train running at peak office hours.
Can't last remember when or if at all i ever did travel in such a crowded bus. Travel educates.Somehow managed to wriggle out of the bus at Kachur and walked the short distance to the toddy shop farmhouse.The farmhouse owned 2 Spitz dogs and a pug with a undocked tail and hence initially mistook it for a boxer pup , all pedigree breeds which always welcomed me with loud barks.Sipped my bottle of toddy by sitting on the bench facing the riverside view with the naughty pug busy trying to flush out some object from the bush while on the tree above a monkey was busy tormenting the old lady of the farmhouse. Hilarious and indescribable village riverfront bliss .Barring fluency in speaking Kannada or Tulu language i seemed to be more local than locals !Walked to home away from home from Kachur on the way relishing my usual "Masala Dosa" for dinner along with bananas.My menu in Barkur was vegetarian breakfast, non-vegetarian lunch and finally vegetarian dinner as i love south Indian vegetarian snacks.Once in Mumbai it would be back to normal "Fried eggs/Chapatis/bread" for breakfast and honestly as a "Nomadic Traveller" adjustments to diet is very important.In Mangalore i have never seen fried eggs or omelette served for breakfast in common restaurants .It's always the household " Udupi" snacks for me and locals in ancestral villages of Udupi.
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| Sasthan Panchayat Office. Record of land documents for my Mudahadu fields were checked at this office.Also cross checked the fact that two inherited field were illegally purchased by Mr Purshottam Shetty of Manipal.Lawyer Mr Neil.Pereira's mother Mrs Irine.Pereira was the " Village Administrative Officer " of this Sasthan Panchayat Office. Every written document was in Kannada language. |
I was early at 0900 hrs and on purchasing the entrance ticket costing Rs 30 made my way inside one of the only 12 " Blue flag " beaches in India.In October I had visited the " BLUE FLAG" beaches of " Thunda Beach" in Minicoy of the Lakshadweep islands and " Radhanagar Beach" on Havelock island of Andaman and Nicobar Island's.
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| Office of lawyer Mr Neil.Pereira in Kota Village .Salvaging whatever is left of my inherited property in Mudahadu and Hosala villages of Barkur Town. |
" Padubidri End Point Beach" would be my third " Blue Flag " Beach visit in India although have swum in most of the prominent beaches in India. It was " High tide" when I entered at 0900 hrs and made myself comfortable under a reclining sitout umbrella shack.Absolutely clean beach and clear light green coloured water as the weather was cloudy, excellent for swimming on beaches .Swimming opens at 0930 hrs and very well maintained beach with life guards on duty and beach cleaners clearing minor waste products that litter the beach sand.Had frequent dips in the sea as swimming was out of question due to the rough waves hitting the beach.Surfing seems to be popular on this beach as there were surfers near the extreme endpoint where the Kamini River flows into the Arabian sea at Padubidri beach .
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| Fishing trawlers entering Malpe Port through the sheltered gap between" Malpe walkway " and Udyavara River channel. |
I was the lone tourist on the entire beach taking dips in the rough sea.At 1100 hrs called it a day, changed and made my exit.
Had to call for a autorickshaw by phone from the receptionist as "Padubidri Endpoint beach" is really at a remote end of Padubidri village where besides tourists no one would want to travel to this remote locale.
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| A fish vendor in Hosala village of Barkur. Modern trend of visiting Farmhouses on a Motorcycle to sell fish. |
The rickshaw driver dropped me at the main highway bus stop the charges being a standard fare of Rs 90.Boarded the bus to Udupi and on reaching Udupi bus stop enquired about "Kediyoor Hotel" a reference given to me by cousin Oswald.Gonsalves.It was a plush restaurant and lunch was a "Fish Thali" costing Rs 420 and worth the money and ambiance.After lunch walked over to the city bus stand and boarded the bus to Malpe.Had visited Malpe in 2008 and hence on alighting the bus and walking towards the Port was surprised to see the large shipbuilding yard of " Udupi Cochin Shipyard Ltd" dominating the port skyline. Asking directions inquired about "Malpe Sea Walk" promenade , a recent addition to the tourism development of Malpe Beach.Also inquired the cost of ferry tickets to St Mary's Island which was Rs 300 for a return trip to this small island situated just of the coast of Malpe beach.which i had visited earlier .As it was a working day and a hot afternoon at 1400 hrs the "Malpe Sea Walk" was absolutely empty akin to "Padubidri End Point beach" in the morning.Except for a few collegians romancing near the entrance the entire stretch of the promenade was empty and walked to the end point of the promenade where i came across a few young men returning back and requested one of them to take my photograph on my camera for memories of "Being there, Done that".From the Malpe walkway promenade the viewer gets a close-up view of the trawlers entering the harbour from the Arabian sea.Was also surprised at the large amount of fishing trawlers in the port wondering about the manoeuvrability for leaving and entering the clustered port.Finally boarded the bus to Udupi City bus stop .
From Udupi bus terminus boarded the empty bus heading to Barkur which gradually got packed with passengers mostly school children and at Brahmavar the bus packed with school students resembled a packed Mumbai local train running at peak office hours.
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| " KALCHAPRA BUS AND RICKSHAW" terminus in Barkur Town. |
Can't last remember when or if at all i ever did travel in such a crowded bus. Travel educates.Somehow managed to wriggle out of the bus at Kachur and walked the short distance to the toddy shop farmhouse.The farmhouse owned 2 Spitz dogs and a pug with a undocked tail and hence initially mistook it for a boxer pup , all pedigree breeds which always welcomed me with loud barks.Sipped my bottle of toddy by sitting on the bench facing the riverside view with the naughty pug busy trying to flush out some object from the bush while on the tree above a monkey was busy tormenting the old lady of the farmhouse. Hilarious and indescribable village riverfront bliss .Barring fluency in speaking Kannada or Tulu language i seemed to be more local than locals !Walked to home away from home from Kachur on the way relishing my usual "Masala Dosa" for dinner along with bananas.My menu in Barkur was vegetarian breakfast, non-vegetarian lunch and finally vegetarian dinner as i love south Indian vegetarian snacks.Once in Mumbai it would be back to normal "Fried eggs/Chapatis/bread" for breakfast and honestly as a "Nomadic Traveller" adjustments to diet is very important.In Mangalore i have never seen fried eggs or omelette served for breakfast in common restaurants .It's always the household " Udupi" snacks for me and locals in ancestral villages of Udupi.
Tuesday (12/12/2023) Barkur :- If not the peacocks " Meowing " then it is the odd neighbouring farmhouse rooster crowing between 0200 hrs- 0300 hrs that definitely wakes up the surrounding farmhouses in the vicinity.As usual at approximately 0645 hrs walked down the field road to Car Street.
After the routine breakfast walked down the usual path through the fields and didn't spot any exotic aquatic birds proving that wildlife/bird sighting is also a question of luck and being at the right place at the right time.
Finally nearing "Furtado Farmhouse" spotted the familiar peahen with her two chicks strolling in the field akin to a hen with chicks.The most important sighting of today morning was that of a mongoose in the field I presume i did hear foxes yowling at night but not sure and now after spotting this mongoose happy that carnivores do exist on this semi-forest farmland .In fact i presumed i would spot at least one snake hoping it wouldn't be a cobra but bizarrely didn't sight a single snake in the farmhouse property or around the fields which is definitely prime snake habitat..At 1030 hrs Peter came over to the farmhouse and we drove to the " Sasthan Panchayat Office" in his car.Met Mrs Irine.Pereira,the " Village Administrative Officer" , Lawer Neil's mother and inquired the verification of the 2 properties in Mudahadu village of Barkur.
Both were registered with spelling mistakes in my Grand parents name and transferring them to Dad's name and later mine would be a Herculean red tapism task of village administrative affairs.First time in my life I had visited a village Panchayat office where entire administration was in local Kannada language which made me feel like a illiterate.Hence the lawyer in 2008 managed to con me on behalf of Mr Purshottam Shetty by showing me a different " Power of Attorney " script in English and altering the same in Kannada language and getting it signed by me.From " Sasthan Panchayat office" Peter took me to Lawyer Mr Neil.Pereira office at Kota . Lawyer Neil was in Mumbai for some official visit and his partner Mr Shyamsunder.Nairi signed the document regarding construction of road along " Acharya Bettu" fields inherited by me.Finally after all documentation was completed drove to Barkur and on the way visited " Kachur Toddy Farmhouse" .After a drink of toddy lunch was at Mr Peter.D' souza's residence which was excellent pork, chicken and rice cooked by his wife Mrs Priscilla.D'souza.After lunch was back at Barkur farmhouse.After a short rest walked the long distance to " Kachur Toddy Farmhouse " and was at the right place at the right time to watch owner cum Toddy extractor Shri Prabhakar climb the coconut tree to extract toddy.Had a dip in the Sitanadi river at peak low tide which was akin to being in the shallow of a swimming pool.
Spoke through " Whatsapp" to cousin Fr Nelson.Furtado based in Austria and told him i was residing at his house in Barkur also explaining him the sad unoccupied abandonment of this ancestral " Furtado Farmhouse ".Just 2 month's back in October had visited Andaman Island's and had a talk on the phone Fr Nelson.Furtado had lived for some time in Rangat in the Andamans in the early 1990's .During his priestly tenure at the local Parish the Jarawa tribals were absolutely unaccustomed to normal mainland inhabitants. He narrated me of instances of local villagers being killed by the Jarawa tribals if they ventured into their reserve forest habitat.The Jarawa tribal case is identical to the "Red Indians" of North America and today in 2023 it is estimated there are approximately 250 to 450 Jarawa tribals in Andamans of whom i managed to sight 2 tribals. Travel educates. My last dinner of my stay in Barkur was masala dosa and two buns at tiny home run Konkan Mangalorean restaurant " Prabhath Bhavan" costing only Rs 50 .Back at the farmhouse relaxed on the laptop.
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| This only surviving vintage photo of " FURTADO FARMHOUSE " was clicked sometime in late 1940's or definitely 1950's by my father Louis.J.Furtado.I presume this was the original structure of the farmhouse when originally built sometime in beginning of 20th century. In that era photography was a luxury in villages and my Dad thanks to his employment on ships could afford this luxury.Notice the difference between this structure of the farmhouse and the renovated structure seen below in 2023. |
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| " FURTADO FARMHOUSE " viewed early in the morning with peacocks " Meowing " and Cockerel's crowing.I will always remember this ancestral farmhouse in this original form.My mothers ancestral farmhouse at Mabukal, the " GONSALVES FARMHOUSE" has been demolished by its new owner. Change is permanent. |
After the routine breakfast walked down the usual path through the fields and didn't spot any exotic aquatic birds proving that wildlife/bird sighting is also a question of luck and being at the right place at the right time.
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| Last lunch in Mangalore at " Royal Inn Hotel" in Brahmavar.Mr Peter.D'souza ate " Fish curry" while I tasted " Korri Roti". |
Finally nearing "Furtado Farmhouse" spotted the familiar peahen with her two chicks strolling in the field akin to a hen with chicks.The most important sighting of today morning was that of a mongoose in the field I presume i did hear foxes yowling at night but not sure and now after spotting this mongoose happy that carnivores do exist on this semi-forest farmland .In fact i presumed i would spot at least one snake hoping it wouldn't be a cobra but bizarrely didn't sight a single snake in the farmhouse property or around the fields which is definitely prime snake habitat..At 1030 hrs Peter came over to the farmhouse and we drove to the " Sasthan Panchayat Office" in his car.Met Mrs Irine.Pereira,the " Village Administrative Officer" , Lawer Neil's mother and inquired the verification of the 2 properties in Mudahadu village of Barkur.
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| Memories of unforgettable Kambala. |
Both were registered with spelling mistakes in my Grand parents name and transferring them to Dad's name and later mine would be a Herculean red tapism task of village administrative affairs.First time in my life I had visited a village Panchayat office where entire administration was in local Kannada language which made me feel like a illiterate.Hence the lawyer in 2008 managed to con me on behalf of Mr Purshottam Shetty by showing me a different " Power of Attorney " script in English and altering the same in Kannada language and getting it signed by me.From " Sasthan Panchayat office" Peter took me to Lawyer Mr Neil.Pereira office at Kota . Lawyer Neil was in Mumbai for some official visit and his partner Mr Shyamsunder.Nairi signed the document regarding construction of road along " Acharya Bettu" fields inherited by me.Finally after all documentation was completed drove to Barkur and on the way visited " Kachur Toddy Farmhouse" .After a drink of toddy lunch was at Mr Peter.D' souza's residence which was excellent pork, chicken and rice cooked by his wife Mrs Priscilla.D'souza.After lunch was back at Barkur farmhouse.After a short rest walked the long distance to " Kachur Toddy Farmhouse " and was at the right place at the right time to watch owner cum Toddy extractor Shri Prabhakar climb the coconut tree to extract toddy.Had a dip in the Sitanadi river at peak low tide which was akin to being in the shallow of a swimming pool.
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| Memories of tasting " Mangalorean Fish Thali " Something different. |
Spoke through " Whatsapp" to cousin Fr Nelson.Furtado based in Austria and told him i was residing at his house in Barkur also explaining him the sad unoccupied abandonment of this ancestral " Furtado Farmhouse ".Just 2 month's back in October had visited Andaman Island's and had a talk on the phone Fr Nelson.Furtado had lived for some time in Rangat in the Andamans in the early 1990's .During his priestly tenure at the local Parish the Jarawa tribals were absolutely unaccustomed to normal mainland inhabitants. He narrated me of instances of local villagers being killed by the Jarawa tribals if they ventured into their reserve forest habitat.The Jarawa tribal case is identical to the "Red Indians" of North America and today in 2023 it is estimated there are approximately 250 to 450 Jarawa tribals in Andamans of whom i managed to sight 2 tribals. Travel educates. My last dinner of my stay in Barkur was masala dosa and two buns at tiny home run Konkan Mangalorean restaurant " Prabhath Bhavan" costing only Rs 50 .Back at the farmhouse relaxed on the laptop.
Wednesday(13/12/2023) Departure " Furtado Farmhouse " Barkur:- Honestly loved my " Robinson Crusoe/ Jarawa Tribal" style stay in isolated " Furtado Farmhouse " in Hosala village of Barkur.Peacock " Meowing " didn't occur during the night but heard some strange sounds outside the farmhouse in early morning hours.Are you afraid of Ghosts ? What me ? At daylight it was normal bird sounds and cockerel crowing with the Peacock " Meowing " coming very late in the morning.Breakfast was at " Preethi Sagar" at Kalchapra and tomorrow would definitely miss my daily " UDUPI MANGALOREAN SNACKS". Change is permanent.
Walked the long distance to Kachur village and had a swim and did my " Aqua Yoga" at " Full High Tide". As always was the only human on the entire river stretch and honestly felt sad on bidding goodbye to the village country living.After a drink of a bottle of toddy walked back the distance towards " Furtado Farmhouse ".Took the route through the former Rice fields now all developed into farmhouses with just few scattered wetlands of former Rice fields still existing which is the source of food for aquatic birds and peacocks.Came across a flock of peacocks including the now very familiar peahen with her two chicks.My 12 days of stay at "Furtado Farmhouse" was a great eyeopener in admiring the nascent beauty of nature as well as realizing that India was changing rapidly by leaps and bounds.Finally at " Furtado Farmhouse " packed my luggage and somehow felt odd leaving " Furtado Mansion" having lived for 12 days all alone in this huge farmhouse estate.A first in my lifetime of travel across the Globe and India where I lived in such a large farmhouse all alone in the midst of a semi- forest environment.Travel educates.Peter came over to the farmhouse at 1145 hrs and finally bid farewell to " Furtado Farmhouse".Drove to " Royal Inn Hotel" at Brahmavar and lunch was beer as a starter and " Fish curry/ rice " for Mr Peter.D'souza and "Kolirotti" for me.First time was tasting " Koli Rotti" in Mangalore having personally eaten the dish at home.Excellent preparation. At 1300 hrs after lunch was at the Mangalore/ Mumbai bus pickup - stop.Inquired about Sweets and was directed to " Madikulas" near Brahmavar bus stand.Purchased " Wheat Halwa", " Horlicks sweets" and a packet of " Malpawa ", all Mangalorean speciality Sweets. Bid Mr Peter. D' Souza goodbye and waited for the bus which was late by one hour finally boarding the bus at 1545 hrs and making myself comfortable on " Upper Birth 6".
After decades was travelling on a bus between Mangalore and Mumbai and that too a complete "SLEEPER BUS" where there were no seats but every passenger given a "Sleeper Berth" akin to train travel.It was a horrible "Sleeper Berth " ride with the bus vibrating on land akin to a ship rolling at sea.Thanks to the railings along the berth that i was on the sleeper berth and not thrown off from my "Bus Bed" . A sleepless night for me reminding me of employment on the "Offshore Vessels" plying on"Bombay High" rigs during peak monsoon weather where working on these ship's during "Peak Monsoon" was akin to serving time in the "Gulag Archipelago".The sleepless night bumpy journey was compensated by punctuality with the bus reaching Mumbai as per scheduled time and at 0730 hrs alighted at Kalanagar in Bandra.Boarded a taxi and was finally in the comforts of my luxurious flat having experienced isolated forest living in classic unoccupied ancestral "Furtado Farmhouse" in Barkur.There is a day and night difference between village and city lifestyle with each having its own advantages and disadvantages.
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| Spotted this unforgettable farm cat with a unique " Hitler/Chaplinesque moustache" coloring under its nose. |
Walked the long distance to Kachur village and had a swim and did my " Aqua Yoga" at " Full High Tide". As always was the only human on the entire river stretch and honestly felt sad on bidding goodbye to the village country living.After a drink of a bottle of toddy walked back the distance towards " Furtado Farmhouse ".Took the route through the former Rice fields now all developed into farmhouses with just few scattered wetlands of former Rice fields still existing which is the source of food for aquatic birds and peacocks.Came across a flock of peacocks including the now very familiar peahen with her two chicks.My 12 days of stay at "Furtado Farmhouse" was a great eyeopener in admiring the nascent beauty of nature as well as realizing that India was changing rapidly by leaps and bounds.Finally at " Furtado Farmhouse " packed my luggage and somehow felt odd leaving " Furtado Mansion" having lived for 12 days all alone in this huge farmhouse estate.A first in my lifetime of travel across the Globe and India where I lived in such a large farmhouse all alone in the midst of a semi- forest environment.Travel educates.Peter came over to the farmhouse at 1145 hrs and finally bid farewell to " Furtado Farmhouse".Drove to " Royal Inn Hotel" at Brahmavar and lunch was beer as a starter and " Fish curry/ rice " for Mr Peter.D'souza and "Kolirotti" for me.First time was tasting " Koli Rotti" in Mangalore having personally eaten the dish at home.Excellent preparation. At 1300 hrs after lunch was at the Mangalore/ Mumbai bus pickup - stop.Inquired about Sweets and was directed to " Madikulas" near Brahmavar bus stand.Purchased " Wheat Halwa", " Horlicks sweets" and a packet of " Malpawa ", all Mangalorean speciality Sweets. Bid Mr Peter. D' Souza goodbye and waited for the bus which was late by one hour finally boarding the bus at 1545 hrs and making myself comfortable on " Upper Birth 6".
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| On the sleeper Volvo bus" " Reshma" from Brahmavar to Mumbai. A sleepless night of jerks and bumps. |
After decades was travelling on a bus between Mangalore and Mumbai and that too a complete "SLEEPER BUS" where there were no seats but every passenger given a "Sleeper Berth" akin to train travel.It was a horrible "Sleeper Berth " ride with the bus vibrating on land akin to a ship rolling at sea.Thanks to the railings along the berth that i was on the sleeper berth and not thrown off from my "Bus Bed" . A sleepless night for me reminding me of employment on the "Offshore Vessels" plying on"Bombay High" rigs during peak monsoon weather where working on these ship's during "Peak Monsoon" was akin to serving time in the "Gulag Archipelago".The sleepless night bumpy journey was compensated by punctuality with the bus reaching Mumbai as per scheduled time and at 0730 hrs alighted at Kalanagar in Bandra.Boarded a taxi and was finally in the comforts of my luxurious flat having experienced isolated forest living in classic unoccupied ancestral "Furtado Farmhouse" in Barkur.There is a day and night difference between village and city lifestyle with each having its own advantages and disadvantages.
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NOTE :- Read the previous travels to Mangalore in earlier blog posts and my motorcycle travelogue to Mangalore in 2019 :- https://solomotorcycling.blogspot.com/2019/04/solo-motorcycling-from-mumbai-to.html
