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| Chundan Vallam ( Snake Boat) named " Parthan" parked alongside Lake Vembanad banks in the village of Kainakary in Allapuzha ( Allepey).The crew of this boat for the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race" would be villagers " UBS Kainakary FANS Club".Mr Ranjith one of the crew members told me that the boat was named " Parthan" to honour the Hindu God Lord Krishna.Every " Chundan Vallam ( Snake Boat) is treated like a temple with utmost respect and no one is allowed to step into this superlong narrow boat wearing any footwear. |
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| At " LTT" station on my way to Allapuzha by Netravati Express . |
The U.S.A- Israel- Iran war of 2026 had made International long distance travel from India a big gamble as flights in the transit Gulf States got abruptly rescheduled or cancelled due to war psychosis . Have been a victim of paying double International airfare twice,once in 2023 due to a transit visa fiasco and second time in 2025 due to a flight cancellation swindle from the ticketing agent .This in total cost me approximately a extra Rs 3 Lakhs over the normal airfare and hence in future decided to play safe and stop playing the role of a scapegoat victim.Readers of my travelogues must have taken travel precautions after reading these two travel expeditions that cost me a fortune in double airfare booking as well as travel exhaustion,although extremely adventurous and successful.Have travelled across all major 28 States and 8 Union territories of India having visited almost all the historic and recreational tourist sites in the country .Scounting for locales to travel within India realized that the World famous annual " Nehru Trophy Boat Race" held annually at Alappuzha( Alleppey) in Kerala was missing from my " Braggers Rights Club " of lifetime travel memories. Booked my train ticket's well in advance on Monday 13 July from my regular ticketing agent Mr Sachin.Jagtap of " Samarth Services" situated inside Worli Fish market,my daily fish marketing locale. Over the decades he has booked all my train tickets while travelling internally within India.
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| " KONKAN RAILWAY NETWORK" from Mumbai to Kerala .If you want to travel parallel and under the Western ghat mountains of India then travel on the Konkan railway .You also get to travel under 91 tunnels including 2 of the longest train tunnels in South India .August is the best month when the monsoon season transforms the entire Western Ghats and the countryside into a natural carpet of green natural turf and lush tropical mountain forests with small waterfalls along with paddy cultivation on the plains.Indescribable Monsoon beauty of the Western Ghats of India. IF A TOURIST THEN DO THIS KONKAN RAIL TRIP IN THE MONTH OF AUGUST WHEN THE FOREST IS AT ITS PRETTIEST AND RAINFALL MILD ,BUT NOT HEAVY. |
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| Tiny and cute " Paradise Beach Homestay " situated on Malikamukku Fisherman's Beach in Alappuzha. Beautiful meditation yogic themes and aquatic fish murals decorating it's facade.I was residing in the next small cottage situated in this bungalow homestay. Malikamukku beach Arabian sea waterline was just 100 meters away from my tiny cottage beach shack.Open air barbecue during non rainy season could be a speciality of this scenic " Robinson Crusoe" style homestay in a isolated locale of Alappuzha. |
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| Ocean view Veranda of " Paradise Beach Homestay " on Malikamukku Fisherman's beach of Alappuzha. Beautiful sea theme murals on the walls. |
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| Early morning view of Malikamukku Beach.Notice the clean sand of the beach and during the incoming " HIGH TIDE" the local fishermen of Malikamukku village are busy in " CAST NET "Fishing ". Swimming on this beach is extremely dangerous as this is a unsheltered beach and the waves are very strong. Although a regular daily 1 + Km swimmer at the "" M.G.M.O" pool in Mumbai I just had a dip in the dangerous sea .A long coastline beach and approximately 2 kms further is the popular tourist favourite, " Alleppey Beach ". |
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| " CAST NET FISHING " from inflatable dingy boats off Malikamukku beach at rising tide is common mode of fishing on this beach. |
Wednesday (19/8/2026) Arrival Alappuzha ( Alleppey):- Had a decent nights 4 hrs sleep and on checking the train schedule was aghast to know that our train was behind scheduled timing by approximately 3 hours.At approx 0630 hrs passed the train station of Barkur ,my paternal grandparents home and also the last link of the "Furtado Family" tree origins to this tiny town of Barkur. Maternal Uncle Mr Godwin .Gonsalves settled in Udupi town had suffered a " Brain Stroke" on Sunday and was happy to receive the news that he was recovering from the after effects of the stroke.He once owned a model "Prawns Farm" on his inherited land, my maternal grandfather's farmhouse .My holiday home during school holidays.Sadly due to losses he closed the business and sold this exotic river front farmhouse .Change is permanant.Excellent travel in the cleanest second class sleeper compartment with well maintained toilet's in comparison to my countless travels on various train routes in India.Conversation with passenger's of my age group Mr James.Joseph heading to Kollam Jn and Mr Johnnie .George who was headed to Kayamkullam Juction which was 2 stations away from my stop " Alappuzha ( Alleppey) station made the journey interesting.Mr Johnnie. George explained me the local cultural situation of the villages of Kerala. I am allergic to extreme cold A/ C compartments and hence as far as possible travel in " 2nd Class Sleepers" unless it was unavoidable as on certain very long routes to North India .Entering the State of Kerala got to view the best monsoon natural beauty of rivers, swamps and green vegetation, the State being nicknamed " God's own country".There was a total of 3 hrs delay finally reaching Alappuzha (Alleppey) at 1815 hrs.Boarded a autorickshaw costing Rs 120 and it was a 2.5 Km drive to " Paradise Beach Homestay " situated on Munnodi temple road along Malikamukku fishing village facing the Arabian sea.The homestay consisted of a small 1 storey building with another small cottage next to it.Owner/Manager Mr Johnson.Loppose introduced himself and after the formalities allotted me my room in the small cottage house, bringing back memories of my own" Rudolph Cottage ( 1995-2009)" holiday residence in Bangalore,although this cottage was much smaller .
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| Malikamukku Town centre. Approximately 1.5 Km from Malikamukku Beach, my residence in Alapuzzha. Main junction for city buses and autorickshaws. |
" Paradise Beach Homestay " was a typical small village cottage residence converted to a homestay facing the Arabian sea and the beach.All alone in the tiny two bedrooms/ kitchen/ toilet/ bathe felt like Robinson Crusoe on a shipwrecked beach.The tiny cottage allotted to me had 2 tiny bedrooms with my room having one bunk bed for 2 guests while the other had 2 bunk beds for accomodating 4 guests.Absolutely congested if " Housefull" .Barring the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race " week , the month of August is tourist off season in Alappuzha due to the rains and hence accomodation vacant .The main one storey cottage had bunk beds A/ C accomodation on the first floor with artistic murals of fish on its walls and was full of young tourists.After a bathe had a stroll around the fishing village road that had fishing boats along the sea beach and a small Catholic "St Joseph Chapel" on the main road from the beach .After visiting St Joseph chapel ,dinner was excellent "3 Dossa's / Beef 40( Beef tripe)" at the local women's kitchen kitchen takeaway which at Rs 100 was unbelievably cheap in comparison to Mumbai's cost of living. .Private transport is very expensive while excellent quality street food amazingly good and cheap.At night 2 guests occupied the next room which was attached to the kitchen and toilet / bathroom and so " Robinson Crusoe" had some company.
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| On the " Punnamada Steel Footbridge " also known as " Nehru Trophy Starting Point Bridge " as this Bridge built across the Punnamada Lake is the main " START POINT" of the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race ". The long length of the scenic Punnamada Lake can be seen in the photo and is the main 1.4 Km long " WATER RACE TRACK" for the Nehru Trophy Boat Race. The Bridge is designed in the shape of a bow string. The traditional " Chundan Vallam's( Snake Boats) assemble below the bridge at the start of the race.Inflattable "Buoy Markers" are used as lane track markers for each individual boat competing in this 1.4 Km long race. |
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| View of " Nehru Trophy Starting Point Bridge " across the Punnamada lake with "Boat Houses" parked alongside the banks of the lake. Bridge has a Unique " Bow String" design. " Chundan Vallam's(Snake Boats) " assemble below this bridge for Start of the 1.4 Km race. |
Thursday(20/8/2026) Alappuzha( Alleppey) :- 30 hrs train travel jet lag played it's role in diminishing my 4 hrs sleep to just 3 hrs.It rained heavily from approximately 0400 hrs and officially woke up to a cloudy morning.After my normal wash ,walked in a mild drizzle towards the seashore.The tide was just rising and absolutely rough waves hitting the coast. Spotted a lone large fishing boat with its crew preparing for its fishing expedition.Took some photo's and later just had a dip in the sea, not being suicidal to swim and be dragged into the deep fathomless Ocean by the rough sea.
Later after a short walk to prime sea facing "Paradise Beach Homestay " got dressed and reminded Owner/ Manager Johnson regarding hiring of a autorickshaw to " Nehru Trophy Starting Point Bridge" for observing the " Chundan Vallam( Snake Boat)" do their practise trial runs as well as observe a " Chundan Vallam" being serviced for the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race " to be held on Saturday (22/8/2026), a mega event drawing a crowd of approximately 2 lakh spectators.
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| Alapuzzha(Alleppey), the Venice of the East. Fisherman selling fish to houses along the lake's banks. |
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| Historic franchisee series Chundan Vallam(Snake Boat) "NANDUBHAGAM CHUNDAN" being serviced and given finishing touches for participation on Saturday(22/8/2026) in the "Nehru Trophy Boat Race".The original "Nadubhagam" was built in the 1920's. In 1952, Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru visited Alappuzha. An impromptu boat race was organized on Punnamada Lake to welcome him, featuring nine snake boats. Nadubhagam Chundan won this historic race. Thrilled by the energy of the rowers, Nehru broke security protocols and jumped directly into Nadubhagam Chundan, riding it to the boat jetty. Later returning back to Delhi ,Nehru donated a rolling silver trophy shaped like a snake boat bearing his signature and a inscription . Hence the first "Nadubhagam Chundan" was responsible for inspiration for starting the "Nehru Trophy Boat Race" and the first formal race for the trophy took place in 1954. This present "Nadubhagam" was built in 2014 and has previously won the "Nehru Trophy Boat Race" in 2019. Here in the boatyard it is getting final preperations for the the 72nd running of this prestigious boat race. |
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| Photo shoot with historic "Nadubhagam" at the Punnamada Boat yard . This is the stern of the Chundan Vallam(Snake Boat) |
Agreed that 4 persons could be accommodated for Rs 250 but even then having travelled across India find Alappuzha autorickshaw's expensive.Travel educates.I had arrived at the right place at the right time and from the top of the bridge got to view my first " Chundan Vallam(Snake Boat)" on its practise trial, a copybook of the numerous photo's and documentaries I have seen over the years.Next ,on inquiry about seeing a " Chundan Vallam " in a shipyard was aghast to hear that no such " Chundan Vallam (Snake boat)" was on dry land in this village vicinity.Language was a major hurdle as common village Malayalis don't converse much in English language.Decades of solo travel experience came to my rescue and I came across a young lady who conversed in English and i rang up the auto driver and she conversed with him in Malayalam language .Finally homestay owner Mr Johnson himself was contacted and he gave the lady right directions and thankfully was guided towards the small boat repair yard situated just a few meters away from " Nehru Starting point " bridge on banks of the Punnamada Lake. There were a few small boats parked ashore for repairs including a disintegrating junk boathouse.One section had a small covered shed akin to a workshop and on entering was greeted by the sight of a majestic brand new " Chundan Vallam " kept upright on the drydock logs while a few workers were giving it's external glistening woodwork structure finishing touches with varnish.
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| "Nehru Starting Point Village" situated next to the bridge is a tropical replica of a Venice Canal way system in Alapuzzha.A small beautiful village with picturesque small bridges and cottage houses.Instead of cars or vehicles it is boats /canoes parked next to the canal houses . |
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| "Nehru Starting Point Village":- Boat parked on canal backwaters in front of a picturesque bungalow. |
On inquiry with a crew member Mr Joseph he told me that the Chundan Vallam's name was " Nadubhagam" and it was owned by the Punnamada Boat club. Built in the 1920s, the original Nadubhagam Chundan carried Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru across Punnamada Lake in 1952, inspiring the creation of the iconic Nehru Trophy.The historic wooden snake boat holds a revered place in Kerala's Vallamkali (boat race) heritage. Amazed that I was seeing a historic " Boat Franchise" being retouched at the Punnamada boat dry dock in Alappuzha.
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| View of the "4-LANE BOAT RACE TRACK" with lane markers at "STARTING POINT". A maximum of 4 Chundan Vallam's can race in one race on 4 different track lanes as shown. The Lanes are numbered serially No 1-No 4. This photo was clicked from the top of "Nehru Trophy Starting Point Bridge".Very scenic "BOAT RACE TRACK" of the Punnamada Lake. A straight 1.4 Km race to "Finish Point" |
This Nadubhagam Chundan was built in 2014 making it 12 years old and after being serviced would be a contestant in the " Nehru Trophy Boat race " and could be a hot favourite given its illustrious pedigree and franchisee history besides a fortune spent on its maintenance. .While in the boatyard saw another Chundan Vallam doing a practise run with its crew.I had left the homestay without drinking tea let alone having breakfast and hence walked back to the main road and breakfast was " egg curry/ appams/ tea".
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| View of scenic boat houses and boats on banks of Punnamada lake as viewed from "Race Starting Point". |
Returned back to my now familiar landmark of " Nehru Starting point bridge" which had numerous houseboats parked alongside the lake.House boat tours are popular and sitting down on the boat jetty passenger waiting stop observed a few group tour tourists boarding a houseboat.Picked up a conversation with a local and he told me that local govt Ferry boats were in operation and on my last visit to Alappuzha in 2016 had taken a beautiful local Govt transport Ferry boat ride akin to a normal bus , only difference that this was a boat on water.As the boat timing was scheduled for 1230 hrs he suggested I visit the " Nehru Start Point village " situated on the opposite bank of the lake.Hence i strolled around " Nehru Start point" village situated on the opposite side of the " Nehru Start Bridge". Having visited Venice in 2010 , on strolling along " Nehru Start point village" was amazed by the narrow canals with boats replacing cars and 2 wheelers , a tiny replica of Venice .Alleppey now Alappuzha has been nicknamed the " Venice of the East" and just a short visit around this village proves the title.Came across the communist Insignia mural firmly imprinted on a canal pathway , a symbol almost extinct from the public eye except in museums in the 21st century. Kerala State was once a strong bastion of the Communist party of India.
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| "Little Venice "in Alapuzzha :- Scenic "Nehru Starting Point Village". |
Hope this cute tiny village preserves it's uniqueness as a replica of Venice and doesn't fall prey to concrete modernisation .Stopped at a village cafetaria and had a tender coconut costing Rs 70 among the awesome village canal passages.All cute bungalow style cottages and houses situated next to the canal passageway with a few boats anchored next to cottage houses akin to cars in a driveway.
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| Backwater local cargo transport. Cormorants are the most common bird species on Punnamada lake. |
Finally at 1200 hrs made my way back from " Nehru Starting point village" to the tiny cute ferry stop next to the imposing " Nehru Starting point bridge" and was sad to note that boat services were cancelled due to preperations on the busy waterways for the " Nehru Trophy Boat race ".Walked back to the main road and strolling aimlessly saw the signboard of a " Toddy Shop " and hence entered a small well maintained shop selling only toddy.Whiled away 2 hrs in this shop watching video music on my phone while sipping toddy.Not crowded like a normal liquor shop with just the occasional customer entering. Toddy replaced beer as my thirst quencher while listening to nostalgic music.From the toddy shop walked a short distance ahead and at 1430 hrs had a late lunch of " Tilapa fish fry/ Rice" at a small local restaurant.After lunch boarded a autorickshaw and at a rental of Rs 130 returned back to Malikamukku beach locale and home away from home " Paradise Beach Homestay".Later akin to a local strolled in the village vicinity discovering a few shops as also visiting the tiny St Joseph's chapel and the large imposing Sree Munnodi Devi temple complex.At the beach watched a few fisherman casting nets from the shore as the tide rose and their catch was a pittance of a prawn or two and a occasional tiny fish.Small fishing trawlers were parked on the beach and viewed the sunset .
Further away from Malikamukku beach is Allapuzha beach and the famous " Alleppey Lighthouse " that I had visited in 2023.Back in my room ,relaxed with dinner being a few excellent " Elaichi yellow bananas" , a speciality of Kerala.Had a normal 4 hrs sleep.
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| A view of the fishing boats parked on Malikamukku beach in Alappuzha.From this beach the boats are manually pusehed into the Arabian sea for short fishing trips.These boats are fitted with Yanmar outboard engines and usually carry a crew of 3 fishermen. |
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| On Malikamukku beach holding a Pipefish offloaded from a fishing launch that just arrived with a harvest of sardines.This was the odd fish in the net along with a few prawns and small crabs. . |
Friday (21/8/2026) Alappuzha( Alleppey) :- After the official daybreak just walked out of my room onto Malikamukku beach ,a unique experience as never before have I lived in a locale having a beach as it's boundary.The small time fisher folks were busy casting their nets from the shoreline as the tide rose. Inquiring directions for bed tea was directed to the " Fisherman Adda", a small stall the served tea and snacks and was lucky to taste a samosa along with excellent " Kadak Chai". All the fishermen were busy in " CAST NET FISHING" always done only as the tide comes ashore( High Tide) .The Catch is a pittance of tiny fish and the odd prawns or a tiny crab.A common small time fishermans job is really tough with minimum profits.Here on Malikamukku beach I was doing a crash course in Fisheries on the subject of " CAST NET FISHING".
Below is a brief educative description of the " CAST NET FISHING " from AI( Artificial Intelligence) .Cast net fishing (Throw net fishing)":- The fisherman uses a round, hand-thrown net with small weights around the edge. As the tide comes in, fish move close to the shore to feed, allowing the fisher to cast the net into the shallow water where it opens in a circle, sinks, and traps the fish underneath.
How Cast Net Fishing Works
The Design: A circular net with lead or small weights along the outer border and a retrieval rope attached to the center.
The Throw: The fisherman hurls the net by hand so it opens flat like a flying disc or umbrella before hitting the water.
The Catch: Weights pull the edges down fast to enclose the fish, and the net is pulled back in to secure the catch.( AI)
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| Cruising the backwaters of Vembanad Lake on a "Alleppey Govt Ferry Boat" .This large ferry boat stops at various different "Boat Stations" on both banks of the largest fresh water lake in India. Sailing past one of the numerous "Boat Houses" that dot the Vembanad lake and a big source of boat tourism.If living in India visit Alappuzha(Alleppey) at least once in your lifetime. |
The bus dropped me near Vazhicherry bridge in the main city and from there it was almost a 1.5 Km walk to Alleppey public Ferry terminal.
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| One of the numerous "FERRY STOPS" along different villages situated on the banks of the Vembanad Lake. Here the "Ferry Boat Conductor" and assistant are releasing the boat ropes after the passengers have disembarked/embarked the passenger ferry boat.Similar to a normal public bus on land and travel on this Govt Ferry Boat if visiting Alappuzha, one of the few city's in the World having internal public ferry transport within its own lake and not the sea. |
Some road bridge construction was in progress and hence a horrible pedestrian road and on the way entered a local local confectionary shop and purchased a packet of Kerala Nendran banana chips and Kerala Halwa unique to the State of Kerala. .At approximately 1000 hrs finally reached my destination and boarded the public Ferry for a sightseeing of the Vembanad Lake by boat as I had done during my previous visit in 2016, a decade ago.Intended travelling to the last ferry stop and returning back to starting point Alleppey boat jetty on this same ferry.Took a single ticket to the last boat stop which cost only Rs 19, unbelievably cheap considering this was water transport, akin to the ultra cheap public suburban local train and bus fares in Mumbai city.
Travel educates.As I had done this routine public Ferry trip once before was not surprised by the unbelievably beauty of India's largest fresh water Lake.
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| A Photo -Shoot" besides Chundan Vallam"Parthan" moored alongside the banks of Vembanad lake in Kainakary village The Chundan Vallam measures between 100-128 ft(30-42 mts) It has a width of 5-6 ft at its centre. The rear height rising above the hull seen in the photo is 20 ft in height. 100-128 rowers crew a "Chundan Vallam" and viewing "PARTHAN" from close distance floating in its natural element, water was a sight to behold. |
The public Ferry criss- crosses and stops at various village " Ferry Stops" on both sides of the lake's banks.I would advice every Indian to visit Alappuzha ( Alleppey) at least once in their lifetime even if they have visited Europe and seen Venice.Searching and scanning the lake for any signs of spotting a Chundan Vallam was amazed on sighting one parked next to the river bank at a " Ferry Stop" we were about to approach. As soon as the Ferry touched " Kainakary Jetty" alighted the boat also making sure that there was a return Ferry back to Alleppey jetty.It was no fun being marooned on a island village in unfamiliar surroundings,besides,i was illiterate in malayalam language.
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| "Alleppey Govt Ferry Boat" approaching Kainakary village "Boat Station" to collect us for the onward journey back to Allepey Boat City Boat Terminus.The most economical tour of the Vembanad lake villages by boat. |
As mentioned before have seen the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race " and " Chundan Vallam ( Snake Boat)" in the visual media but never ever in real life and here on the banks of the Vembanad lake in Kainakary village I was standing next to a beautiful floating " Chundan Vallam(Snake Boat " .Picked up a conversation with Shri Ranjit , a crew member of this majestic " Chundan Vallam ( Snake Boat)" named " Parthan" in homage to the Hindu God Krishna.These boats are treated like a temple and no crew member or person can enter this boat wearing footwear.There was a school in close proximity and young children were busy in some form of educational entertainment.
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| View from the Ferry :- Landmark St Thomas Orthodox Church located in the backwaters in Kuppappuram,Kainakary. Numerous Church's belonging to different branches of Christianity in Alappuzha. |
Finally at 1150 hrs the Ferry arrived and boarded the same , the Ferry ticket being the cheapest sightseeing tour of Vembanad Lake for any budget minded tourist.During the nreturn journey experienced a brief spell of rainfall and at 1245 hrs was back at Allepey Boat Jetty.Weather was excellent and bizarre having experienced partially clouded sky suddenly opening to a abrupt spell of brief rainfall followed by bright sunshine.Lunch was " Tilapa fish fry/ Boiled Kerala rice fish thali" at Hotel Yuvaraj situated on Boat Jetty road near the main S.T bus stand next to the Boat jetty.
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| After the Vembanad Lake backwaters boatride , lunch at " Hotel Yuvaraj " situated in close proximity to the ST bus stand near Alleppey City boat jetty." Fried Tilapa/ Kerala Boiled rice" |
This was my costliest food since arrival, costing Rs 550 and honestly the quality of taste of the two fried Tilapa fish eaten yesterday at a common local Malayali restaurant costing Rs 350 was much tastier than branded hotel Yuvaraj. No wonder many prefer " Street/ Dhaba" food to expensive restaurants.After lunch on a fare of Rs 100 boarded a autorickshaw to Malikamukku Town centre and from the town it was a long walk past the railway crossing to " Paradise Beach Homestay ", my home away from home on the beach.Dinner was just a large delicious single banana with " Kerala Halwa".Suddenly on the eve of " Nehru Trophy Boat Race " , the homestay got full and I had a guest Mr G.Pravin .Kumar from Bangalore sleeping on the top bunk while a young lady occupied the next empty room.
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| NEHRU TROPHY BOAT RACE -2026 :- View from "China Town" restaurant viewing gallery on 7th floor of Ramada By Wyndham Alleppey hotel . A "Chundan Vallam(Snake Boat)" race is in progress heading towards the "Finish point " located at the south end of Punnamada lake next to the "Nehru Pavilion" island that has a statue of India's First Prime Minister Jawaharlal.Nehru.The expensive grandstands,,VVIP seating and presentation ceremony takes place at the "Nehru Pavilion".Notice the floating "House Boats" lined next to each other in a single file facing the boat race track and filled with spectators.For common public viewing there are free or low cost seating along the banks of the lake . LENGTH OF 4-LANE LAKE WATER RACE TRACK is 1.4Km |
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| In " China Town" restaurant on 7th floor Of " Ramada by Wyndham Allepey Hotel to watch 72nd Nehru Trophy Boat Race-2026. Relaxing with a beer in the restaurant while the terrace gallery outside this restaurants has viewing stands for guests.Restaurant had T.V broadcasts of the races in Malayalam language. Cost was Rs 5000/ person from 1100- 1800 hrs.Lunch/ Tea and cold drinks/ popcorn buckets was included in the entry ticket.A day to remember. |
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| View of " Common Grandstand " for spectators along Lake Punnamada coastline situated opposite " Nehru Pavilion ". This is the " Water Race Track " of 1.4 Km distance with finishing point being at this end next to " Nehru Pavilion ". |
After watching the unbelievable days catch and after the fish folk finished assorting the fish onto small portable containers for manual transport and sale in the local market walked the short distance back towards the homestay.Got dressed and headed out of this cute fishing village/ tourist homestay locale onto the narrow main road past the railway track crossing onto main Malikamukku Town centre.Breakfast was " Channa Massala/ Aapam/ Tea" at the local Malayali " Adda", unbelievably relishing , safe and cheap at Rs 60 for a tourist from India's most expensive city, Mumbai.Travel educates.After breakfast boarded a autorickshaw to " Ramada by Wyndham Allepey " hotel ,situated at Punnamada fishing village near Finishing point stadium to watch the one and only " Nehru Trophy Boat Race ". Childhood school friend Mr Biju.J.Karian who was also responsible for my admission into the 4 year " Mazagon Dock Marine Engineer " apprenticeship course in Mumbai comes from a high profile Syrian Christian family of Kerala tracing their Christian lineage to Christ's first Apostle St Thomas.
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| NEHRU PAVILION :- Situated on a small island on the lake having a statue of Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and is the main "VVIP Grandstand" situated at the "Finish Point" of the 1.4 Km long "Nehru Trophy Boat Race". |
A former Marine Engineer now settled in Bangalore having retired as a technical director in a shipping company he was now a businessman with a passion for expensive motorcyles/ cars as also owning a speedboat in Kochi.Last year he was at the boat races with his family and his personal speedboat.He advised me to book a seat at the " Ramada by Wyndham Allepey " hotel where they organized a viewing deck in their "China Town" restaurant on the topmost 7th floor of the hotel for tourists to observe the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race ".Ticket cost Rs 5000 and included lunch/ tea with the allotted viewing hours being 1100 hrs to 1800 hrs.The autorickshaw fare amounted to Rs 120 and at 0900 hrs I was very early and decided to visit the main outdoors temporarily erected stadium. The 1.4 Km lake race course water track stretches from the Punnamada Starting Point(Nehru Bridge) down to the Nehru Pavilion Finish point lane markers.
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| "Ramada by Wyndham Allepey ". A 5-Star hotel situated in close proximity to " Finishing Point " of Nehru Trophy Boat Race. The best locale to view the race but carry binoculars as viewing is from the 7th floor.Closed circuit T.V shows races "LIVE" in the "China Town" restaurant but only in Malayalam language. |
Spectators can choose from several distinct viewing zones based on their preference for comfort or local atmosphere.Located right at the finishing point on a small island is the Nehru Trophy Island Pavilion which has a statue of India'sfirst Prime Minister Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru and offers prime grandstand seating to watch the final sprint and the trophy ceremony.If not for " Ramada by Wyndham Allepey" hotel i would have booked a premier seat in this " Nehru Trophy Island Pavilion".Access to this pavilion requires a short ferry ride from the mainland, which is included in the ticket price.The banks along the race tracks provide open-air viewing areas like the Victory Lane, Rose Corner, and general standing lawns.As i walked along these spots got to experience the early arrival of the local crowds with the press and media ahead as usual and motorboat's parked along the boarding points.A string of large boathouses were lined next to the " Nehru Trophy Island Pavilion " facing the main land grandstand , akin to a floating spectator grandstand, another good location to watch the boat races from close proximity.
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| A different designed smaller Chundan Vallam doing a trial run Cruising alongside Nehru Pavilion towards the " Finish Point ". The "Chundan Vallams(Snake Boats)" come in different designs and sizes . The largest 100-138 ft(30-42 meters) and accomodating 100-128 rowers Chundan Vallams compete though elimination rounds for the finals of the "Nehru Trophy Boat Race". |
A group of local women folk were singing traditional Vanchipattu (boat songs).Malayalam was the language of the day at the boat race and sports has no boundaries regarding language,a reason that sports and sportsperson are the greatest cultural ambassadors across the Globe. Weather was excellent, cloudy, with no hot Sun.After savouring the local ambiance of the boat race in the common gallery pavilion at approximately 1000 hrs walked the short distance from " Nehru Trophy Boat Race" finish line common spectator grandstand into the sprawling estate of " Ramada by Wyndham Alleppey" hotel.Due to Onam festival there were large festival greeting cutouts of King Mahabali(Maveli) on approaching the hotel entrance . The legendary Asura king whose annual homecoming is celebrated during Onam, the biggest harvest as well as the State festival of Kerala.
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| At 1000 hrs on the main common viewing gallery opposite "Nehru Pavilion"."Nehru Pavilion" is a small island requiring transport by boats from the mainland.The boats parked are for transfer to "Nehru Pavilion". |
On entering the crowded hotel lobby was given the customary tender coconut welcome drink.Later collected my printed ticket on producing my online booking ticket and at 1045 hrs headed onto the lift to the " China Town" restaurant situated on the 7th floor of this 5- star hotel.My seat was " No 149" and on reaching the 7th floor, highest floor of the hotel stepped into the lobby and into the main grand " China Town(Lounge and grill rooftop restaurant )" .There was a open terrace on both sides of the enclosed restaurant bar which had temporary small grandstands erected for the guests for viewing of the boat races. Excellent " Birds Eye view" from the topmost location in Alappuzha city.I was carrying my binoculars, surprised at being the only guest carrying binoculars .Closed circuit ," Live " , as well as small screen " T.V" broadcast at major sporting events including horse racing has made binoculars redundant but definitely not obsolete as I discovered on numerous occasions. Akin to wearing a manual wristwatch when you can get a more accurate time from your smartphone ..
With my binoculars got a grand view of the entire boat race " Water racecourse" , tourist boathouses and the " Nehru Pavilion Grandstand ".
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| Press Sports Photographer Mr Fahad .Munir of "Malayalam Manorama" at "China Town" viewing gallery of "Ramada by Wyndham Alleppey" hotel.With expensive professional camera equipment this viewing point is excellent for post card photo's. |
Initial races were the heats of different types of boats and there was a giant screen on the opposite side of the hotel that gave a live broadcast of the event with the only drawback being that i was illiterate in Malayalam language.Excellent broadcast which I could watch through my binoculars and was amazed at the speed at which these Snake boats covered the 1.4 Km ( 1400 meters) racecourse distance depending on the type of Snake boat design.A local guest Mr Sriram educated me a little on the boat races and the culture of Alleppey, called the rice bowl cradle of Kerala as also the source of the Communist party movement in Kerala.I will never forget the iconic Communist party symbol of the sickle carved in marble mosiac on a pathway in the beautiful " Nehru Starting line village" a mini Venice in India.Cold drinks and popcorn was limitless and later had a Kingfisher beer in " China Town" .
Normal 5- star ambiance with telivised broadcast of the races in Malayalam language and barring the language and the difference in the sport felt I was in the " Members Enclosure" on Indian Derby day at the Mahalaxmi race-course in Mumbai. Now why didn't "Ramada by Wyndham Alleppey" hotel not print a " CHUNDAN VALLAM(SNAKE BOAT) NEHRU TROPHY BOAT RACE "guide in the English language for the benifit of its Non-Malayalam tourists ?
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| All competing "Chundan Vallam's(Snake Boats)" assembling in front of "NEHRU PAVILION" for the grand inauguration of the 72nd "Nehru Trophy Boat Race". |
Travel educates.After watching a few of the " Heat Races" made my way ground floor onto the hotel grounds for lunch in a different section of the hotel estate.Huge crowd due to Onam festivity as well as Nehru Trophy Boat race and according to me the guidiance to various different guests attending was not up to standard by the hotel staff and with great difficulty found our section of the buffet lunch hall.Lunch was late at 1345 hrs and a live band was playing some local music .Excellent food and relished the Aapams/ Duck roast although the crabs and fish i eat back home in Mumbai was way above in quality then that served in this 5- star hotel.Travel educates.Dessert was excellent with huge variety and I ate like a teenager, no apologies for food gluttony.The grand inauguration ceremony began at 1400 hrs with a flotilla of various " Chundan Vallam's( Snake Boats)" assembling like a school assembly in front of the " Nehru Pavilion Grandstand " at the finish line. The 72nd Nehru Trophy Boat Race was officially inaugurated at the Nehru Pavilion .
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| View of the "BOAT HOUSES" lined on the opposite side of the land spectator gallery. Resembles a floating stadium and packed with tourist spectators. Notice the 4 Lanes marked with "White Buoy markers". |
The grand ceremony was jointly led by Kerala Chief Minister V.D. Satheesan and Karnataka Chief Minister D.K. Shivakumar.Karnataka CM D.K. Shivakumar attended as the chief guest, alongside Alappuzha MP K.C. Venugopal, Cultural Affairs Minister P.C. Vishnunadh (who hoisted the event flag), and other state ministers. After the grand inauguration speech by politicians the boats went back to the " Starting Line" and the main races of the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race" began..After lunch went back to the 7th floor and didn't take " Seat No 149" in the viewing gallery of " China Town " but akin to horse racing was a continuous standing spectator on the gallery railings of the enthralling races.Akin to a " Umpire" in a Cricket match there was a " UMPIRE BOAT" named " Binubhavan" bearing a red flag and " Umpire " written across it that supervised and maintained the decor of the races.
Akin to horse races, after the finish of every race and a repeat broadcasting of the race on the giant open air telivision followed by a short interval , the next race was run.
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| View of a section of the "RACE TRACK" with its lane markers and the giant telivision screen for public viewing.Approximately 2 lakh spectators line along both sides of the Punamada boat race tracks to watch the "Nehru Trophy Boat Race" . |
A press sports photographer Mr Fahad.Munir of the " Malayalam Manorama" was present at the viewing gallery with his expensive camera and telephoto lenses and picked up a conversation with him.He reminded me of my late classmate Mr Leonard Aarons who was a press photographer for various prominent publications during his lifetime covering various cricket matches and always roaming around with his heavy camera equipment.It rained in-between the races , a passing shower but enough to get a person drenched.Rain in Alleppy during my stay was erratic, short and unpredictable. The main races were left for the end with the largest " Chundan Vallam's" contesting in races of 4 contestants.In the second last race of the day the Chundan Vallam " of Kainakary village which I had visited on Thursday won it's race by a "Distance( Horse racing term)" in a 4- boat race.
In the last race which was the grand final race of the day for wiinning the prestigious " Nehru Trophy Boat Race " the " Chundan Vallam " named " Nadubhagam " which I saw being given cosmetic surgery in the drydock at " Nehru Starting Point " boat drydock on Thursday placed second in a thrilling " Photo- finish" in the 4 - boat race.
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| "CHINA TOWN" restaurant on topmost 7th floor of Ramada By Wyndham Alleppey hotel. Live display of the "Nehru Trophy Boat Races" on telivision in Malayalam Language. Housefull Crowd. |
"AROMA CHUNDAN" won the 72nd Nehru Trophy Boat Race . "Aroma Chundan", claimed victory with a winning time of 4 minutes, 23.328 seconds.Final Standings and Timings were 1st Place: Aroma Chundan (Aroma Boat Club) – 4:23.328 2nd Place: Nadubhagam Chundan (Punnamada Boat Club) – 4:23.448 3rd Place: Veeyapuram Chundan (UBC Kainakary) – 4:23.770 4th Place: Melppadam Chundan (Pallathuruthy Boat Club) . Aroma Chundan rowed by the Aroma Boat Club of Paravur made a sensational debut lifting their maiden title in one of the closest photo-finishes in the history of the event, edging out the runner-up " Nadubhogam" of " Punnamada Boat Club" by a mere 12 milliseconds.Bizarre coincidence that i got to witness one of the closest finals in the 72 year history of the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race " as also having touched and felt the runner up Chundan Vallam " Nadubhagam " while it was being fine tuned for maintenance at the Punnamada boat dry dock.
Finally past 1800 hrs the grand " Nehru Trophy Boat Race- 2026" came to a official closure with the waterway being open for normal launches.A total of 71 different boats had participated in this 72nd running of the " Nehru Trophy Boat Race " of which 22 boats were the giant " Chundan Vallam ( Snake Boat)".
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| All good things come to a end and after a hectic day viewing the "Nehru Trophy Boat Race" from the "China Town" viewing gallery of Ramada By Wyndham Alleppy hotel made my way to the exit of this 5-star hotel. It was the Onam Festival week and a actor impersonating King Mahabali (Mavali) greeted visitors at the entrance/exit door with a photoshoot and a "Happy Onam-2026".In Kerala Onam Festival is celebrated by all religious communities and not only the Hindu community. Onam is the official State festival of Kerala. |
On a average a capacity crowd of approximately 2 lakh spectators line both sides of the water race track .As I was making my exit out of the hotel was greeted by a actor impersonating the legendary King Mahabali(Maveli) , a tradition of the Onam festival in Kerala.Took a photograph with Maveli as did other guests.Exiting out of the hotel was greeted by a heavy downpour of rain and luckily was within the hotel complex.After the rain subsided the next hurdle was getting a autorickshaw as there was a massive traffic jam on the very narrow roads of Alappuzha akin to the Indian Derby at the Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai. Had a marathon walk past the S.T bus stand into the main city and luckily did get a autorickshaw that dropped me at " Paradise Beach Homestay " on a rental of Rs 120.End to a grand day of witnessing a once in a lifetime unique watersport.The homestay was packed with young new guests from Bangalore, a few having arrived on their motorbikes all the way from Bangalore.
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| The Small Scale "FISHING INDUSTRY" of Malikamukku Fishing Village situated approximately 2.5 Kms away from Alappuzha's tourist "Alleppey Beach".The fishing village has a Catholic population along with the majority Hindu fishing folks. The small "St Joseph Catholic Chapel" which i visited daily is situated next to the main Munnodi Temple road just across this main beach after which this small fishing boat has been named. This boat had just arrived with a large catch of "SARDINE" fish and all these boats are fitted with powerful "Yamaha" outboard engines.As soon as the boat arrived the fisherfolk got busy offloading the entangled sardines from the net. |
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| Daily early morning observing the fishermen at work in "CAST NET FISHING" could have tried my luck in the business of "Small Scale Fishing" as a hobby . |
Sunday (23/8/2026)Allapuzha ( Alleppey) : - As usual after a wash and bathe walked out of our hostel cottage now filled to capacity with youth tourists.Today being a Sunday it was quiet morning regarding single fishermen using " CAST Nets" just off the beach.But, to my utter surprise 3 fishing motorboats were launched into the sea from the beach, each boat having a crew of 3 fisherman.
Malikamukku beach never ceased to surprise me as also was sad to see human excrement in isolated locations of this beautiful otherwise very clean beach.
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| Sree Munnodi Devasthan popularly known as Munnodi Devi Temple,a historic shrine with unique architectural design. |
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| St Anthonys Chapel facing Malikumukku beach and in close proximity to Munnodi Devi Temple |
Fishermen might be definitely using the beach for the occasional defecation but only hope that although tolerable in isolated cases it doesn't become a daily regular habit which could destroy this pristine beach.After normal tea at the " Fisherman's Adda" walked the short distance to home away from home " Paradise Beach Homestay ".Changed clothes and decided to visit Allepey beach, last visited in 2016.Walking along the narrow village road came across 2 young men and hence picked up a conversation with young cousins in their early 20's , Mr Salman and Mr Asif , were originally from Alleppey but now studying and employed in the Middle East.These cousins were on a unique mission of counting their footsteps walking across Alleppey.They were heading in the same direction as Alleppey beach and so I joined them in the long 1.5 Km walk and generation Z with whom I was now residing had a different vocabulary compared to our baby boomer generation.
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| Olympic size"Raja Kesavdas Swimming pool" in close proximity to Alleppey Lighthouse. |
Change is permanent. The beach was deserted in the morning and my intention was to visit the Lighthouse which I couldn't during my last visit in 2016 as it was closed. Thanked Asif and Salman for the company to Alleppey beach and headed towards Alleppey Lighthouse.The Lighthouse was closed and strolling a little further came across Olympic size " Raja Kesavdas Swimming Pool" .Bizzarely there was no security guard at the entrance and just walked into the stands of this beautiful Olympic size swimming pool.Two young boys had just finished swimming, otherwise the pool absolutely empty.Membership costs Rs 3000/ month ,very exorbitant compared to " M.G.M.O( Mahatma Gandhi Memorial Olympic) pool in Mumbai, my daily swimming pool .From the pool walked towards the Lighthouse and discovered " Cafe Namma Illam", the heritage veg cafe situated next to landmark " Alleppey Lighthouse ".
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| "Namma Illam",the heritage Veg Cafe situated next to Alleppey Lighthouse as seen in the photo. |
A absolutely chic authentic vegetarian local Kerala restaurant having vintage decor, large and spacious with the " Alpite Sports Centre" football rink facing it's outdoor seating space.Breakfast was " Benne pode Massala Dosa/ Sweet Lassi" with the bill amounting to Rs 250.Free Wi- Fi was also available and a total " First World " restaurant with a beeper tag given after placing order for collection of the same as it was a self-service restaurant .After breakfast walked next door into the " Allapuzha ( Alleppey) Lighthouse "complex with the ticket being Rs 12.I have quit trekking but trekking never seems to leave me ! Had to trek up 150 wooden steps to reach the top of this historic Lighthouse.
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| "Alpite Sports Centre" next to Alleppey Lighthouse. Youngsters playing Rink Football. A multigame sports centre . |
Although not the tallest structure in Alappuzha but definitely the tallest in its vicinity and the the views from the top was marvellous.Amazing Alappuzha weather from unpredictable heavy rainfall to bright hot blazing sunshine.From the Lighthouse visited the Lighthouse Museum, a must visit itinerary if visiting this historic Lighthouse. From the Lighthouse it was again a long 1.5 Km walk back towards " Paradise Beach Homestay " and enroute noticed some beautiful plush beach facing hotels.Had some rest in our beach shack cottage , a unique experience with beach sand on the floor. As it was Sunday most shops were closed and Malikamukku Fisherman's village is totally isolated from the rest of Alappuzha's commercial World with just homestays and petty stores .
Walked 1.5 Km to Malikamukku Town centre where my normal local Kerala restaurant was closed but luckily another bigger local restaurant open on the same road was open .
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| A grand walk to the top of Alleppey Lighthouse and a visit to the lighthouse museum. |
At 1430 hrs I was the lone customer and lunch at 1430 hrs was " Beef curry/ Aapams" costing Rs 140.Local Kerala restaurants are modestly priced and I am commenting after eating food in a 5- star hotel and a upper class hotel during my short stay in Allapuzha. As there were no restaurants in the vicinity on inquiry with homestay owner Mr Johnson walked the almost 1 Km distance from " Paradise Beach Homestay " to chic " Cafe Catamaran" situated at Kanjiramchira on the same road to Alleppey beach. A plush open air 5-star style Cafe. Dinner was " Seafood creamy soup" which took almost half an hour for preperation.Although the cafe was crowded with customers it is ridiculous to keep a customer waiting for half an hour after placing a order.So my final dinner in Allapuzha was in the plushest restaurant facing Malikamukku beach as also making me wait the longest for the ordered dish costing only Rs 220.Seemed like they waited for a fresh catch of fish to arrive on malikamukku beach to prepare the soup.Thankfully ambiance was classic and lively with a holiday crowd.Travel educates.
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| During my 6 days stay in "Paradise Beach Homestay" situated on Malikamukku fishermans beach did a free short crash course in "FISHERIES AND FISH MARKETING". Was up at daybreak on this beach observing fishermen indulging in their daily day's employment of "Cast Net Fishing" at "High Tide".Later in the day the harvested sardines/prawns was transported by autorickshaws or manual wheel barrows to Malikamukku main town market. |
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| Last dinner of the tour at plush " Cafe Catamaran " in Kanjiramchira facing the extension of Malikamukku beach. Plush beach facing hotels and restaurants on this part of Malikamukku beach. |
Monday(24/8/2026) Departure Alappuzha to Mumbai :- Since my arrival it had been raining daily early morning before daybreak ,the weather cool.In the morning at 0600 hrs just walked out of my shack room onto the beach and had my last sea dip in the Arabian sea.After tea at the one and only " Fisherman's Adda" walked back to my temporary home away from home.Strange but true that my " JIO NETWORK" was absolutely non functional in Alappuzha and if not for the excellent local wi-fi in " Paradise Beach Homestay " I would have been shipwrecked in the world of Internet communication.Later in the morning walked towards Kanjiramchira road and passing " Cafe Catamaran " turned left and was relieved to locate " Achil Bukataria restaurant " which I was supposed to visit yesterday night for dinner but mistakenly landed into chic ,plush " Cafe Catamaran. " .
Breakfast was plain Dossa/ Omelette/ paratha/ tea costing only Rs 70.Also purchased freshly fried " Kerala fried banana" costing Rs 10/ piece .
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| 6 Days of early morning/evening beach walks on Malikamukku beach and Fisherman's village.Recharged my Mojo. |
Inquired regarding shops for purchase of Kerala halwa and chips for taking back to Mumbai and was told to visit " New Gujarathi Sweet Centre" situated in the town market.Back to my beach shack/ room was busy on the wi-fi. Before leaving my beach shack/ room met owner Mr Johnson and had a talk regarding his tourism rental business.He would be renovating the small cottage I had lived in and himself stayed in a different house a few Kms away.I presumed he was breaking down this ramshackle but strategically located tiny beach cottage/ shack to build a new one and happy to note he would be renovating it.A backpacker's haven for those willing to rough it out in genuine beach wilderness, a la "Woodstock -1969".Finally at 1015 hrs bid adieu to " Paradise Beach Homestay " , a authentic rustic homestay far away from the crazy hectic skyscraper city's of the World.Walked the distance to the local shop and requested the owner to ring up for a autorickshaw as my phone internet was non functional.Boarded the autorickshaw and first stop was at landmark sweet shop " New Gujarathi Sweet Centre " that was stacked with local Kerala speciality snacks.Purchased " Kerala Halwa/ Banana chips" which became my third baggage.Relaxed inside the clean Alappuzha train station awaiting the arrival of "16346/ Nethravathi Express " to Mumbai,my permanent home from the numerous homes away from home.Weather was excellent with sudden short bursts of rainfall followed by a lull with cloudy skies and cool weather akin to mild air-conditioning.
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| A excellent "Beach Rock Concert" aura at "Paradise Beach Homestay",absolutely informal ambiance akin to scenes from "Woodstock-1969". With Mr Johnson.Loppose ,owner of the homestay. |
At 1215 hrs boarded the S4/52 of " 16346 Nethravathi Express" .A family from Kerala on their way to Goa were seated in my section and a excellent journey with cloudy weather and evergreen countryside view outside the train. Tasted " Kerala Paisum( Sweet Dessert)" which the family offered me.Did get a normal 3 hrs sleep.Besides hostels I had also become accustomed to living on trains during my solo travels across India and that too mostly in " Second class sleeper compartments" as I am allergic to A/ C compartments if the temp falls too low.Breakfast was " Omelette/ Medhu Vada" from the train railway kitchen caterers .Picked up a conversation with my co- passenger and was enthralled viewing the scenery and beauty of the Western Ghats of India.
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| At Alappuzha station boarding the 16436 /Nethravati Express" to Mumbai.A train that is infamous for being late at both ends of its route. |
The train was late by 2 hrs and on inquiry was told that " Nethravathi Express " was a habitual late arrival train. Lunch was " Rice / Fried Chicken " and finally at 1815 hrs reached LTT station.Took the normal public transport route back home to permanent home " Vaibhav Apartments Co-Operative Housing Society " situated on Old Prabhadevi Road,my permanent residence since 51 long years.End of a memorable short trip to Alappuzha( Alleppey), where besides being a spectator of the 72nd " Nehru Trophy Boat Race " also did a free 4 day crash course in " CAST NET FISHING" on Malikamukku beach, my homestay residence in Allapuzha. Travel educates.
